Over the past two decades, China has transformed at a breathtaking pace, shedding old skins to reveal a hypermodern powerhouse. Farmlands have become megacities, maglev trains stitch the country together at dizzying speed, and cash transactions have all but vanished into one of the world’s most advanced digital economies.
Still, amid the buzz and brilliance, time slows down at the no-longer remote towns of Lijiang and Shangri-La, located in China’s southwestern Yunnan province. It was here, 20 years ago, that the Banyan Group first planted its roots in China.
The choice was not obvious then, but has since proved prophetic. Picture Claire Chiang and Ho Kwon Ping, Banyan Group’s visionary founders, traversing the vast country on rattling trains, shoulder-to-shoulder with farmers and livestock, in search of a destination that spoke to the imagination. A place of calm, connection, and belonging.
In 2005, Banyan Tree Ringha welcomed guests in the foothills of Shangri-La, followed a year later by Banyan Tree Lijiang. These became the Group’s first sanctuaries in the country, and the most beloved. Places where the idea of luxury was redefined through immersion in nature and culture rather than escaping from it. Today, as Banyan Group marks its 20th anniversary in the country, the occasion feels less like a commemoration than a homecoming, returning to the origins of a philosophy that equates luxury with nature, culture, and the warmth of home.
Symmetry, Stillness, and the Spirit of Lijiang
At first sight, Banyan Tree Lijiang feels like a composition in symmetry and stillness. A three-tiered pagoda welcomes guests, its eaves curved, cloaked in Naxi-inspired tiles, red lanterns swaying with the wind among weeping willows. Beyond, the snow-dusted crown of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain rises against a crisp, cobalt sky. Of the resort’s 123 dwellings, 55 villas face this northeastern horizon, each offering a private window to its majesty.
The villas themselves are sanctuaries of regal intimacy. Inside, imperial blues and reds meet the intricate geometry of Naxi motifs, hand-finished by local artisans. At nearly 8,000ft above sea level, winter’s chill dissolves in deep-soaking tubs or under generous rainfall showers. Private courtyards open onto outdoor heated pools, large enough to fit a family of four, where you can soak in silence, mountain light dancing on water. The feeling is both grounding and transcendent: you are enveloped in comfort, yet inseparably tied to the land around you.
Banyan Tree’s celebrated spa—the soul of every Banyan Group’s property—embodies its Eight Pillars of Wellbeing: mindfulness, groundedness, growth, and movement, among others. Treatments unfold like rituals, restoring the body’s rhythm through touch, scent, and silence. Beyond the spa, wellbeing threads through every touchpoint, from tea ceremonies at dusk to stargazing under clear Himalayan skies.
At Bai Yun Restaurant, the bounty of Yunnan is elevated into exquisite meals. Wild morel and matsutake mushrooms anchor menus that celebrate the season, while yak meat is braised until tender and bubbling hotpots steam with nourishing chicken broth. Meals are best enjoyed slowly, paired with a local craft beer.
Perhaps the deepest imprint of Banyan Tree Lijiang lies in its embrace of community. The on-site Gallery showcases handwoven shawls, silver jewellery, essential oils, and paintings by local artisans—sustained through Stay for Good, Banyan Group’s long-running sustainability initiative. Guests are invited beyond observation to try their hand at Dongba rock painting, woodblock printing, or to join a sunset ritual guided by resident craftsman and Naxi elder John Duan, resplendent in a sheepskin jacket passed down through generations.
For adventurers, Lijiang opens into one of China’s great landscapes. Guided treks lead into rhododendron valleys and the legendary Tiger Leaping Gorge, a dramatic canyon carved by the Jinsha River, a tributary of the Yangtze. Even a modest 3km hike rewards with staggering views: green mountains folded like meringue, rivers flashing silver through ravines, nature at its most unbridled and, therefore, most unforgettable.
The First Banyan Tree in China, and Still the Most Magical
A two-hour drive from Lijiang, the road climbs higher into Tibetan territory. The landscape softens into rolling pastures, dotted with temples, prayer flags fluttering in the wind, and stupas gleaming atop hillsides. Here lies Banyan Tree Ringha, a hillside hamlet of just 32 residences—each a lovingly restored Tibetan farmhouse.
When it opened in 2005, Ringha became Banyan Group’s first property in China. Its debut was bold, even unconventional. A statement that luxury could be rustic, soulful, and inseparable from the land. Even the most modest accommodations are duplexes, their timber beams and stone walls bearing the patina of centuries. Where Tibetan families once kept yaks on the ground floor, guests now find deep wooden bathtubs, rainfall showers, and Banyan Tree’s signature amenities. It is a transformation that honours the past, while offering comfort of the present.
In the cold, crisp morning, wake up to the sounds of yak bells and, from your elevated terrace, watch the morning sunlight lap over the mountains. Nearby, the Shu Du Gang River glides quietly at the foot of the resort. Here, time loosens its grip. Walk along the riverbanks, watch wild horses graze in the distance, or simply sit still long enough to feel the seasons move. Ringha is not a place to be busy; it is a place to slow down, to breathe deeply, and to remember what is essential.
Evenings gather around fire and community. After a long soak in a wooden tub, guests join a sunset ritual: Tibetan women in traditional dress moving hand in hand around a bonfire, their silhouettes framed by mountains glowing in amber light. Later, warmth continues inside a Mongolian yurt, where hotpots steam and Tibetan performers weave stories through music and dance. There is a festive, timeless quality to it all. You could almost imagine yourself feasting beside Genghis Khan, surrounded by generals and laughter.
Being here, you begin to understand why Claire Chiang and Ho Kong Ping fell in love with China at their serendipitous encounter here. Ringha is deeply magical, perhaps because it remains unmarred by the ravages of time and development, a place untouched by the rush of time.
Many hotels promise luxury. Fewer deliver connection—to land, culture, and to humanity itself. At Banyan Tree Ringha, as in Lijiang, luxury and meaning are inseparable. To stay here is to return to something elemental. To the warmth of community, the beauty of nature, and the wonder of simply being alive.
Ancient Towns at Your Doorstep
Both Banyan Tree resorts sit on the edge of UNESCO-listed towns that remain essential to any visit.
In Lijiang, the Dayan Old Town is a maze of canals and cobbled lanes, often compared to Venice. Built more than 400 years ago, its bridges and courtyards invite evening wanderings. Just five minutes from the resort lies Shuhe Old Town, quieter and more poetic—a hidden gem of cafés, artisan shops, and bars beside a clear-water river. Less crowded than Dayan, its slower pace offers a more intimate glimpse into Naxi life.
In Shangri-La, Dukezong Ancient Town embodies Tibetan heritage. Although much was destroyed by fire in 2014, the town has been faithfully rebuilt, its labyrinth of lanes alive with thangka paintings, jewellery stalls, incense, and teahouses. In the evening, the town glows with performances, music, and the hum of conversation spilling from its bars.
