Since its opening in 2020, Akar Dining has navigated a winding path through pandemic closures, reinventions, and renovations, later emerging as one of the most quietly confident fine-dining addresses in Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. At the helm is chef-owner Aidan Low, whose philosophy remains rooted in Malaysia’s terroir, expressed with a precision shaped by his years of training in Japan and France. The result is a restaurant both warm and uncompromising, which explains its consistent recognition, including a third consecutive Michelin selection.
The latest Mekar (“to bloom”) menu extends this ethos, unfolding over 10 thoughtful courses. It begins with a trio of opening ‘snacks’: Abalone & Mung Bean, pairing steamed abalone with fried mung bean noodles and mulberry sauce; a delicate Flower Tart, a rose-and-coconut-kissed scallop bite crowned with edible blossoms; and a robust Prawn Cake, layered with tempoyak, seagrapes, and the bright lift of kaffir lime. Together, they set the stage for a dining journey rooted in Malaysian memory yet rendered with cosmopolitan flair.
That interplay continues in Ketupat, a witty reimagining of the Hari Raya staple where marinated silver catfish stands in for rice and spring roll skin mimics woven palm leaves. Elsewhere, Low draws from his formative years in Japan with Kabu Turnip—an edible sculpture of savoury turnip ice cream and Osetra caviar that surprises with its sweet-salty contrast.
After the series of ‘appetisers’, the dinner crescendos with Cassava Noodles, served with a kulim emulsion sauce and puffed beras rumie, which adds a perfect crispy contrast to the chewy noodles; and Slipper Lobster (a personal favourite), where tender lobster is sealed in char siew glaze and dressed in an assortment of local herbs and Cameron Highlands’ iconic strawberries that add a refreshing hint of fruity tang to the dish. The standout, however, was the Crab Claypot: served family-style to the bated breaths of my tablemates, who had relished the meal during prior visits, the dish layers koshihikari rice with crab meat, crab fat curry, and coconut crab broth—a nostalgic homage that recentres the dinner around the warmth of home meals.
Desserts are no less evocative. Apam Balik arrives as a pillowy reinterpretation of the street snack, complete with peanut sponge and toasted coconut floss. Then comes Pasir Putih Cacao, a nuanced chocolate mousse brightened by roselle kombucha, and, finally, Sweet Memories—a playful procession of kuih bahulu, kaya, dodol, and even a “Kopiko sphere”, each bite tugging at the strings of childhood recollection.
What makes Akar Dining remarkable, however, is not only the food but the spirit behind it. The experience is designed to feel like stepping into Chef Aidan’s own home—unpretentious, welcoming, and grounded in curiosity—where every question, no matter how novice or ridiculous, goes unanswered. Dishes are backed by a team that forages, researches, and experiments, and served by a team where smiles are authentic and personal.
With Mekar, Akar continues to honour Malaysia’s culinary heritage while gently expanding its horizons. It is, as Low says, a reminder that we need not look far for great food—it has always been here, waiting to bloom.
Akar Dining serves their dinner menu every Tuesday to Saturday, from 6PM to 12AM. Reservations can be made here.
