When most people plan a trip to Taiwan, they tend to think of Taipei, Tainan, or Kaohsiung. Yet just an hour from the capital lies Yilan, originally home to the indigenous Kavalan and Atayal peoples. Although their cultures remain visible in modern society, their populations have declined over the years. Today, the county is better known for its scenic landscapes, hot springs, and coastal ports.
At Wushi Harbour in Toucheng stands one of Yilan’s major ports. Passenger ferries and yachts crowd the harbour, but towering above the rest is a cruise ship that appears unfazed by the motion of the waves. As you draw closer, you discover why: behind the illusion is The Archipelago, a resort designed to replicate the look and feel of a cruise—on land.
The main entrance opens on the second floor, complete with a faux deck and sails, as if you were navigating across the sea. Here, instead of traditional chandeliers, guests are greeted by a breathtaking wooden light installation—a 10-metre-long whale and dolphin brought to life by local artist Lu Bing Cheng. “It symbolises the famous whale and dolphin watching tours in the area,” explains Jahan Lin, CEO of The Archipelago.
From this vantage point, the level below resembles the seabed. Soft blue lights shimmer like underwater bubbles, while live music fills the space, as entrancing as the call of sirens. At night, guests can make their way downstairs to enjoy film screenings beneath the gentle blue glow, settling into the calm of the sea.
Like all great cruises, convenience is key—and this resort knows how to deliver. The Archipelago’s standard facilities include a gym, yoga room, and spa, while guests looking to take a dip can choose from one of four pools. As a family‑oriented resort, even its youngest guests will feel at home in the 100‑square‑metre kids’ club, which houses an indoor maze, mini golf course, shuffleboard table, Nintendo Switch consoles, and an arcade.
In a region famed for its hot springs, it is only fitting that The Archipelago continues the tradition. In Yilan, hot springs were historically developed during the Japanese colonial era and were primarily used for therapeutic bathing. Here, the resort’s indoor hot spring is complemented by a cold spring and a sauna. For a more private experience, guests can retreat to the terrace onsen, taking in sweeping views of the sea and the sunset over nearby Guishan Island.
Equally remarkable is the resort’s dining offering, overseen by chef André Chiang, the culinary creative director and internationally acclaimed chef who has earned a total of five Michelin stars throughout his career. At Archi, the resort’s fine‑dining restaurant, Chiang showcases the bounty of Yilan’s coast through Italian‑inspired dishes. Rather than relying on the more common technique of dry‑ageing meats, the chef experiments with the niche practice of dry‑ageing seafood—a rare sight in Taiwan. Before the dining experience begins, guests are also granted a glimpse into the restaurant’s secret space, unveiling hidden treasures that make the occasion all the more memorable.
There are several other dining venues to explore throughout the resort. By day, Yen Club serves a traditional breakfast of Taiwanese congee, thoughtfully curated for restorative, soulful nourishment. In the afternoon, it transforms into a stylish lounge offering aperitifs and light refreshments. Meanwhile, Pelago serves as the resort’s signature all‑day dining venue, presenting an international buffet alongside local favourites such as rice rolls and fried dough sticks. For lunch or afternoon tea, Coco offers indulgent selections ranging from Chiang’s signature beef noodles to an elegant three‑tier afternoon tea set. When the weather permits, guests can also request a picnic in the palm‑lined courtyard, where shoreline fishermen and horses amble by in the distance.
To experience Yilan as it is meant to be enjoyed, travellers are encouraged to venture beyond the resort’s walls. Just off the coast lies Guishan Island, a living volcano that last erupted in 1785. According to Lin, its underwater volcanic activity gives the surrounding waters a milky Tiffany‑blue hue, providing a habitat for diverse marine life. “In the summer, you can visit the island by yacht or sailboat. Visitors can swim or go stand‑up paddleboarding there,” he adds. The resort also organises excursions out to sea, offering guests the chance to glimpse dolphins and whales in their natural habitat.
During the cooler months, a visit to the Kavalan Distillery is worth considering. It was here that Taiwan introduced its first single‑malt whisky to the world in 2008. Benefiting from Yilan’s unique location, Kavalan whisky has garnered numerous awards and international acclaim, thanks to its distinctive flavour profile shaped by the region’s abundant supply of pure, mineral‑rich water. The touring experience includes learning about the brand’s origins, tasting its whiskies, and the opportunity to craft a personalised blend.
For a gentler escape, Lin shares a favourite spot he often brings friends to when they visit. Tucked behind a Japanese restaurant known as The Pearl in the Palm Club is a charming teahouse, where chickens roam freely as guests savour the delicate aromas of Yilan’s specialty teas—an unhurried glimpse into the quiet beauty of this remarkable region.
