Bvlgari Tubogas Manchette
Although the Tubogas bracelet took root in the 1940s at Bvlgari, the Italian maker looked to 1974 to realise this stunning high jewellery timepiece. But its construction proved no simple feat. While its geometry is the same as the original, the gem-set design is entirely new.
Each section of the coil had to be meticulously set with 11.98 carats of diamonds, while 1.06 carats of spessartites, 1.05 carats of citrines, 0.87 carats of rubellites, 0.62 carats of peridots, 0.63 carats of amethysts, and 0.59 carats of topazes are scattered throughout.
But for a watch of this magnitude, Bvlgari required an equally robust movement. The watch is powered by the Lady Solotempo Automatic BVS100, which also equips the Serpenti Tubogas and Serpenti Seduttori. The minute mechanical calibre measures just 19 mm by 3.9 mm and manages to pack in 102 components. It weighs a mere 5 grams, but boasts a 50-hour power reserve and operates at a high frequency of 21,600 vph. It’s proof that Bvlgari considers its female clients above a simple quartz movement—offering craftsmanship at every level.
Price: Upon request
Material: 18-karat yellow gold, diamonds, spessartites, citrines, rubellites, peridots, amethysts, topaz
Size: 135 mm
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton
After reviving Daniel Roth’s eponymous business in 2023, Louis Vuitton has been steadily releasing novelties that capture the master watchmaker’s love for both the tourbillon as well as the extra-thin mechanical movement. In the new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton, LV—and its in-house watchmaking arm, La Fabrique du Temps—imagines the Extra Plat in an openworked version in which the movement’s beauty is revealed in full. Said movement, the hand-wound cal. DR002SR, was developed specifically for this watch; though based upon the extant DR002, it utilised freshly designed bridges and plates designed in 18K 5N rose gold, which matches the watch’s double-ellipse case—a signature of the Daniel Roth maison. Beautifully finished and proportioned, it’s evidence of Roth’s personal philosophy that considered the extra-thin movement as a complication in its own right.
Price: CHF 85,000
Case Material: Rose gold
Size: 35.5 mm
Gérald Genta Geneva Time Only Marrone and Grafite
In a sequel to the Geneva Minute Repeater from last year’s Geneva Watch Days, Gérald Genta is dropping two time-only interpretations of its beautiful Geneva watch. Housed in a 38 mm tonneau-shaped case in rose or white gold, it features a single lug paired to a calfskin leather strap in stunning dial-matching tones, a stepped bezel, and a mix of polished and satin surfaces. An outer railroad minute track in white follows the shape of case, while an inner grained section in brown (rose gold case) or grey (white gold case) is set with applied rose gold indices and matching pencil hands. Measuring just 8.15 mm and powered by the Zenith Elite cal. GG-005P automatic movement, it’s a lovely opening salvo to 2026, and should be on the short list for the year’s best dress watches.
Price: US$25,000
Case Material: 18-karat rose gold or white gold
Size: 38 mm
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Novak Djokovic GOAT Edition
This funky set of three differently-colored tourbillon watches celebrates Hublot brand ambassador Novak Djokovic, the tennis’s undisputed G.O.A.T. Composed of a special composite derived from Djokovic’s recycled Lacoste polos and tennis rackets, it’s available in shades that celebrate his wins on three different types of surfaces: green for grass, orange for clay, and blue for hard courts. Beyond the eye-catching case material—which is complemented by a white rubber strap with accents that match the case color—each features a dial inspired by tennis rackets: What appears to be a lattice-like network of “strings” is actually a single filament just 0.55 mm thick that snakes its way across the mainplate; the movement’s barrel, meanwhile, delivers 72 hours of power reserve. Individually numbered but not limited, the GOAT Edition will be available in an initial run of 101 pieces.
Price: US$95,000
Case Material: Composite/Titaplast
Size: 44 mm
Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime and Worldtime Flying Tourbillon
Louis Vuitton is a company built on luxury travel, so it’s practically a requirement to have a world timer watch. This year, two new versions are presented in the Escale collection: a Worldtime and a Worldtime Flying Tourbillon, both in platinum and with 62 hours of power reserve. Escale, by the way, means “stopover” in French. The Escale Worldtime has been around since 2014, but what makes the 2026 versions more elevated is not only their elite case metal, but also the new blend of high horology and métiers d’arts techniques. Each of the 24 flags on both models—executed to look like the brand’s famous Damier pattern—is painted by hand in 35 colours with a fine-tipped brush, for example. In the tourbillon version, the flags are done in grand feu enamel.
The biggest difference between the two, however, lies at their centre. In the Worldtime, a grained blue dial plays to the texture of Louis Vuitton’s historic Monogram canvas. A flying tourbillon in a star-shaped Monogram flower design, holds court on the other. Adding the flying tourbillon in conjunction with the rotating city disc required extra consideration by the development team in integrating the two complex mechanisms so that exceptional precision could be achieved within the shared space. Both feature new calibres, the LFT V012.01 for the Worldtime and the LFT V005.01 for the Worldtime Flying Tourbillon. They both share 62 hours of power reserve, the world time function, day/night indicator, 24 time zones indicator, jumping hours, and minutes. Jumping up to the Flying Tourbillon version, however, will cost you about two-and-a-half times more the price of the Worldtime. Just how high will you fly?
Price: US$94,500 for the Worldtime; US$239,000 for the Worldtime Flying Tourbillon
Case material: platinum
Case size: 40 mm by 10.33 mm for the Worldtime; 40 mm by 12.8 mm for the Worldtime Flying Tourbillon
Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon
An extended version of this story was originally published on Robb Report USA.
