spring in their step
The men that exuded the sort of sharp tailoring synonymous with Hugo Boss were not on the runway. Rather, they were on the front row watching the brand’s Spring/Summer 2018 march down the room in New York – Chris Hemsworth, Alexander Skarsgård, Matt Bomer, Wallace Huo, Sebastien Stan, Nik Wang and Matthew Zorpas, all dutifully decked in suits of utmost precision (and careful colour coordination as well). On the Manhattan runway, however, the vibe was decidedly more mellow than methodical. Ingo Wilts, the chief brand officer of Hugo Boss, promised that ‘everything will be light and easy.’ And he delivered, crafting a weather forecast that calls for a summer of ease.
Unifying the collection is a nautical inspiration (as well as uniform heels of white on the footwear). An original theme it may not be, but thankfully the label does not take it too literally. Instead, it sprinkles the sea salt gently across a collection that ranges from Bermuda shorts to double-breasted jackets, resulting in the sort of breezy clothes that are a unique combination of Manhattan meets Martha’s Vineyard.
A thematic colour story divides the collection into five parts, starting with seaside shades of eggshell, cream, pale dove and icy blues, eventually giving way to richer hues of brown and blue, along with vibrant reds. The nautical theme is sometimes immediately evident – fisherman’s hats and stylishly-cut Mackintoshes – and sometimes subtle – business-ready jackets reborn in light linen alongside shirts with a easy, Bahamas-like vibe. You can almost feel the sun and smell the seafood grill.
It’s not all marina menswear though; towards the end, the collection veers urban – black bombers, tomato red coats and easy sweaters for those that prefer to prowl city piers. The brand’s DNA of precise tailoring is still there, in the details, but now swathed with a laidback vibe. For next summer, Hugo Boss is going on a carefree nautical vacation, and everyone aboard this languid yacht ride will be dressing the part.
