a spectacular surprise
Perspective matters. Turning off the lengthy 18 November Street in the Omani capital – named after the birthday of the current Sultan of Oman, who transformed the country – the immaculate green grounds of The Chedi Muscat are narrow but stretch far into the distance to terminate at a single door. Even up close, that confined impression holds – though it is a very impressive door and an equally impressive archway that protects it. Step inside, handing your luggage to the attentive bellboys, and the perspective changes. Opening up to a soaring atrium designed to look like the inside of a regal Bedouin tent – with ruby and amber-hued lights painting the space in the colour of sunset – the effect is impressive. The Chedi Muscat is more than what it seems at first. Far, far more.
Once the check-in completed – with efficient briskness – the perspective changes again. Instead of stretching ahead, the view opens up horizontally, with the hotel grounds opening up far wider than one would have initially imagined. The Chedi Muscat is palatial, but not in an ostentatious way. Designed by Jean-Michel Gathy, the hotel’s 158 rooms and suites (from OMR119/RM1,225 per night) are connected by an intricate network of outdoor pathways, pools and pergolas – snow-white surfaces reflecting off dark lakes of water. This stark, minimal approach is characteristic of Gathy, but instead of his typical tropical shades, the palette here is black and white, with only natural greens punctuating the monochrome. It is symmetrical, smart and chic.
Equally stylish are the rooms and suites. Crisp and clean, even the standard Serai rooms are spacious, with cleverly deployed mirrors expanding the space further. The Chedi Club Suites villas, however, are the pinnacle here – a little private sanctuary complete with sunken bathtubs and dramatic windows, as well as access to copious amounts of champagne in the Club Lounge. Designed with the sort of international flair that could fit into Bali or Bora-Bora, careful details like shades referencing Islamic geometry and Arabian urns firmly identify that we are in Oman.
Three swimming pools offer respite from the Omani heat, which can be searing at times. Once again, this affords Gathy another avenue to play with perspective. The smaller Chedi Pool runs parallel with the beach, while the children-friendly Serai Pool stretches out towards the sea under a series of canopies that provide both shade and a tunnel-like effect. Most impressive, however, is the aptly named Long Pool. Shaped like a sluice, it may seem narrow, but at 103 metres, is the longest pool in the Middle East, complete with alcoves to wade while enjoying a cocktail. A double-storey building traces the length of the pool, housing the health centre and the Spa. The latter is de rigeur during a visit here, terminating in a lounge where louvres cleverly form an Arabian arch looking out to the sapphire waters of the Gulf of Oman.
At 21 acres, a mere roam around the grounds can build up quite an appetite. Referencing Muscat’s long history as a trading port, recipes from all over the world are represented across the three main restaurants – Middle Eastern at the Arabian Courtyard, seafood at Beach and global collection under the chandeliers of the Restaurant. Dining is also possible at each pool, with fresh sushi after a swim at the Long Pool being quite a treat. It is difficult not to succumb to the temptation of repeating that stroll-sup cycle endlessly at The Chedi Muscat, though the spectacular Wadi Shab and Bimmah Sinkhole are worth at least one journey out into the desert.
In the end, perspective matters. The Chedi Muscat is not an exercise in excessive opulence, but a hotel that mixes Omani heritage with an Asian restraint. With its precise symmetry, careful attention and meticulous service, The Chedi Muscat is unlike most other hospitality properties in this region, and is all the better for it.
