Sapphire Spectrum
Hublot is no stranger to exotic materials, and in fact is well-known for innovation in this regard. This includes sapphire, which is the transparent and extremely scratch-resistant substance universally used for watch crystals. It is a much more difficult prospect to machine sapphire to create the larger and more complex shapes of watch cases, but the results are compelling: lightweight, hardy and providing an unparalleled view of the mechanical interior.
Since 2016, Hublot has had all-sapphire watch cases in its line-up, including different colours such as smoked black, red and blue. This year, for the Geneva Days showcase, the brand is introducing an eye-catching new colour of sapphire case in the tonneau-shaped Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Sapphire (RM400,600, limited to 100 pieces). Yellow is an uncommon hue in watchmaking; it is implemented here not in an overly saturated, eye-hurting way but a rather more playful shade that reads almost pastel. It houses a self-winding chronograph movement, with pushers and skeleton dial in a contrasting black. At 42mm across, it is somewhat conservatively sized for a Spirit of Big Bang, but still chunky and broad-shouldered—though the transparency somewhat lightens its wrist presence.
Also presented was the Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Blue Sapphire (RM661,000, limited to 30 pieces). The blue comes across as icy and serene, and is a fresh take on a timepiece that somehow manages to be outrageous and stately at once. The transparency makes the hand-wound movement all the more involving, with the mainspring visibly tensioning as the user twists the crown. It is a sizable piece at 45mm in diameter, but the use of sapphire (for the movement plates and bridges as well as the case) and openwork design make it surprisingly light.