It takes a bit of work to properly appreciate a timepiece from A. Lange & Sohne. The German watchmaker’s pieces have a purposeful, almost austere quality to them that is not as seductive as some other watches—to the inexperienced eye, that is. Lange’s detail-oriented, downplayed approach is held up as a pinnacle today’s watchmaking and has a devoted fanbase of purists that does not shy from deep technical appreciation. “You only really fully and totally appreciate what we do if you go into the details. We’re not a brand that you understand just by looking at it,” says Lange’s CEO, Wilhelm Schmid.
“I think you need to be a character that likes to fly under the radar, and is quite self-confident, but also knowledgeable,” Schmid says of his prospective clients. “I believe that if you buy a Lange, it’s the result of a very educated decision-making process.”
The appreciation only grows as one learns more about Lange. Some of it can be seen through a loupe—exquisitely hand-engraved bridges, or perfectly polished and chamfered edges. Some cannot be, like the knowledge that each component is finished to the same lofty standards whether they can be seen or not, or that each movement is assembled twice to ensure mechanical and aesthetic flawlessness. Other intangible attractions include the story of the brand itself—lost in the chaos of post-war East Germany and reclaimed by its scion after the Berlin Wall came down, or how and why the Datograph in 1999 was the most significant in-house chronograph movement developed in decades.
Learning about all this takes some effort, but Lange makes it easier for its customers with programmes such as the Connoisseurs’ Akademie. Held periodically around the world, this by-invitation event typically involves a getaway in some exclusive resort or hotel, with presentations and hands-on workshops allowing clients to gain some first-hand knowledge and experience. For the South East Asian market, the most recent Akademie was held in COMO Point Yamu in Phuket, Thailand. This luxurious seaside resort and its breath-taking coastal views is not the typical setting associated with watchmaking, but a bona fide watchmaker was indeed there. Robert Hoffman, head of the Zeitwerk department, was on hand to elaborate on the intricacies of Lange’ watchmaking—including this year’s new release of the Zeitwerk Date. Hoffman was unrestrained in the depth and detail of his explanations—this is, after all, an event for dedicated fans, but the relaxed schedule ensured there was plenty of time for attendees to take things at their own pace. They would also get a chance to try some watchmaking themselves, either by assembling the geartrain of a practice movement, or trying a niche in-house tool that sees the powerful Zeitwerk mainsprings coiled into their barrels.
These practical segments are fun and laidback, but inevitably see a lot of failures. This is precisely the point, Schmid points out. “People look at things and believe it’s easy until they try it themselves,” he says. He speaks from experience; when he first joined Lange, he spent three months rotating between different positions in the manufactory to learn about—and fail—its exacting requirements. The Akademie hands-on sessions may last just a couple of hours, but give clients a taste of what Lange watchmakers, finishers and toolmakers must accomplish day in and day out, and to the highest standards.
“That’s why the Akademie, or a visit to our manufacture is so important,” Schmid says. “That’s the moment of truth. You realise how difficult it is to do things that look so easy. And you will not realise that without this sort of exercise.”
