It’s entirely fitting that One&Only Desaru Coast’s signature restaurant, Hoshi, takes its name from the Japanese folktale behind the Tanabata Star Festival, which celebrates the day that the stars Vega and Kengyuu cross the Milky Way to meet. That Hoshi – which translates to ‘star’ – should centre around the story of two star-crossed lovers, destined to meet once a year, seems an unusual concept for a high-end dining experience, but since when has One&Only’s brand of hospitality adhered to convention?
This is not your typical cookie-cutter Japanese restaurant with the familiar dinner sets and crowd-pleasing sashimi boat extravaganzas. Yes, Hoshi offers plenty of the good stuff – sea urchins, langoustines, Bluefin otoro, Oscietra caviar, and white asparagus, for instance – but what chef de cuisine Aziz Abduraimov does with it is often nothing short of extraordinary. Hailing from Uzbekistan, Abduraimov is a veritable rising star himself, having shaped his own culinary style in the kitchens of Oxus in Moscow, and Zuma Dubai and New York.
“I’m inspired by my experiences in the kitchen as well as personal memories, from my adventures to vibrant culinary destinations all around the world, including Japan,” he says. “I spent formative years at Zuma, and this fusion style is an approach I take with me to Hoshi. We want to bring an element of the unexpected to the traditional omakase dining experience. Tradition meets modernity at Hoshi – we have a deep respect for Japanese ingredients married with creative flair.”
Cutting an elegant, aquiline figure behind Hoshi’s geometric bar counter, which sits beneath a sprawling jungle mural by Malaysian graffiti artist Abdul Rashade, Abduraimov constructs his seasonal omakase menus – particularly his sashimi and sushi courses – according to the philosophy of Syun. (Prices range between RM550 to RM1,320 per person.) “It is the Japanese belief that food should only be eaten in season, when it is at the peak of its flavour,” he explains. “Designed to showcase the exceptional bounty of Japan, each ingredient is meticulously selected and prepared within their optimal window of freshness.”
But the unimpeachable quality of the Japanese produce that makes its way to the Desaru Coast is only part of what makes a meal at Hoshi so memorable that it looks strongly positioned to become one of Johor’s destination restaurants once travel restrictions relax. There is a brilliance that accompanies Abduraimov and his creations, whether they’re feather-light tempura, marbled morsels of chūtoro and ōtoro bathed in dashi and house-made ponzu, or an exquisitely sculpted piece of sushi atop a glass terrarium of dried and living leaves.
At times, it’s hard to delve into the dishes at Hoshi because they so closely resemble small works of art – but it would be a far greater crime not to eat them. Abduraimov is a dab hand with herbs and spices too, knowing exactly how to employ the pepperiness of the violet-tinged hana hojiso bloom, or to alter the character of his nigiri using a special furikake blend, to considerable effect. “Food – like music – always evolves!” he remarks. “While I appreciate the traditional aspects of Japanese cuisine, I like to experiment with new flavours and bring a touch of my personality to the table.” Be prepared to end up more than a little star-struck after completing an omakase experience at Hoshi.
