Dior is known for its ultra-feminine jewellery inspired by nature, the heavens above and love. Its latest collection, Gem Dior, features a new, architectural style that combines natural elements with the house’s history of couture. Each piece features stacked, offset links of different sizes and heights, which gives them a unique, multi-dimensional look.
The inspiration behind this design comes from the way Mr Dior would pin swatches of fabric from his haute couture collections onto pieces of paper, as well as the natural, organic shape of gemstone and mineral roughs. Victoire de Castellane, artistic director of Dior Joaillerie says, “The spirit of this collection is modern, it’s a style that I would describe as abstract-organic, an organised disruption that turned out to be a true technical challenge for our ateliers.”
Several monochrome pieces in 18-karat white, yellow or rose gold with diamond links let the asymmetrical shape speak for itself. Others are adorned with wildly different gemstones and minerals that create a kaleidoscope of colours. There is also a cuff bracelet and a watch both fully set with diamonds, for a dose of pure glamour.
The name, Gem Dior, is a pronunciation play on the French words “J’aime,” which means “I like,” and sounds like “gem.” And there is plenty to like—the use of minerals and decorative stones is striking. Highlights include a blue-and-green theme in jewellery and a vivid multi-coloured watch with a malachite green dial. The cuff and ring feature 18-karat yellow gold mixed with diamond, lapis lazuli, malachite, and chrysoprase links for a harmonious and elegant composition. The watch is more daring. It alternates 18-karat yellow gold and diamonds with blue lapis lazuli, deep red carnelian, brown tiger’s eye, vivid turquoise and pink mother-of-pearl. Each of the seven watch dials also features a gemstone or mineral, including white mother-of-pearl, onyx, lapis lazuli or malachite.
Dior has put a new spin on traditional watch cases by focusing on the organic, natural shape of gemstones—the irregular octagonal case shape is inspired by a slice of rough tourmaline. The bezel is set with diamonds, and some have gold or onyx inserts at the top of the case and the fully articulated bracelet is designed as an open cuff rather than a clasp. It wraps around the wrist ending with a diamond-set insert at the top of the case, which leaves a sliver of skin exposed. It could even be worn as a bracelet if you wore it with the dial positioned on the inside of the wrist. The watch bracelets have the same link design as the jewellery but include a steel model and a dual-tone bracelet that alternates 18-karat yellow gold with steel. Each also comes with a black alligator leather strap topped with a diamond insert at the end.
Previously published on Robb Report.
