A clean sweep
Couture is not a word often associated with menswear, but it fits designer Stefano Pilati’s accomplishment with Ermenegildo Zegna during his just concluded three-year tenure. Ermenegildo Zegna Couture combines the unparalleled expertise of the world’s largest luxury menswear label with Pilati’s formidable tailoring prowess. For Ermenegildo Zegna’s SS 16 collection, Pilati has put together a collection that is at once sharp yet relaxed.
On a stark white runway in Milan, Pilati sent the first eight male models out dressed in black. The designer’s skill with cut and fabric was in full effect as the different silhouettes went down the catwalk. There was nothing to distract from the gentle taper of the suit jackets, nor the full billow of the belted coat. Textures also sang, with each fabric in a subtly different note, coming together in a harmonious blend. The last of the eight looks, a double-breasted suit, was made with a transparent light wool georgette that revealed an internal construction of madras checks, which led neatly into the next look.
The following series had a touch of Asian influence. Madras, a lightweight cotton cloth with plaid patterns, was the former name of the city Chennai in India. Here, Pilati elevated the fabric into a luxurious couture-worthy Double Century Cashmere, a result of Ermenegildo Zegna’s constant innovations with tailoring fabrics. ‘Deconstructed’ jackets and oversized coats of varying check sizes were paired with loose fluid trousers that provided a contrast to the Italian designer’s strict tailoring. Paisley, a pattern rich in Indian heritage, also made an appearance on the wrist of the models.
The final all-white series in the collection takes the idea of airiness further. Pilati’s manipulation of traditionally feminine fabrics is nothing short of sublime, reiterating his concept of the Broken Suit with a japon silk jacket and habutai silk trousers. The lightness of the pieces, sometimes to the point of being sheer, is a testament to the impeccable construction and innovations that Ermenegildo Zegna relentlessly strives for. The white series completes the colour spectrum of the collection, from a sombre black parade to a lively rainbow of checks and rich, nuanced tones, and finally to the calm, ethereal Zen of white. There’s a thoughtfulness to the whole collection that’s almost meditative, with each piece reiterating the idea of unhurried luxury.
