Since 2005, Only Watch has raised funds for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy by auctioning off piece unique watches. At past events, timepieces have set world records for the highest price paid for any watch ever sold at auction, all for a worthy cause. The last Only Watch auction took place two years ago in 2021 with 54 exceptional timepieces from the biggest, most daring brands in the business.
This year’s Only Watch will take place at 8 am EST on 5 November at Geneva’s Palexpo center under the hammer of Christie’s as well as online via christies.com. It will be the 10th edition of the watch world’s most prestigious charity event, and will feature a whopping 62 lots from 73 different watchmakers and brands, including 16 collaborations.
If you can’t be there in person, you can consult with Christie’s to place bids over the phone. In addition, no buyer’s premium or commissions are applicable for the Only Watch charity sale, as in previous editions. To attend the auction in person, you may express interest through this short form, and for more information, you can visit the Only Watch website.
Still not convinced? The participating brands have given us a taste of what they’ll be offering for the occasion, and we’ve selected the wildest watches going up for this year’s Only Watch auction.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked
This 41mm watch was launched last year as a symmetrical, architectural display of the new calibre 2972 and its 6 o’clock flying tourbillon—and its exquisite display of traditional finishing techniques. The Only Watch edition presents it in new light with a striking white ceramic case and bracelet. The latter has invisible pins as well, as so not to interrupt the aesthetic. The exposed movement has a new, predominantly blue finish, which, along with the chapter ring, provides the case a cool, modern contrast.
Jacob & Co x Concepto Watch Factory Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension
With three dimensions accounted for, one might have thought that the tourbillon had reached its zenith. Not so for the ever-audacious Jacob & Co., who teamed up with movement design speciast Concepto Watch Factory to produce the Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension. Fully visible inside the domed sapphire of the 47mm rose gold Astronomia case is the twin-armed one-minute rotating movement with time indicator on one side, and triple-axis flying tourbillon on the other. This makes it the first-ever ‘four-dimensional’ tourbillon—three on its own axes, and one more for the rotation. The energy demands of the system are fierce, so much so that a patent-pending constant force buffer system was developed to protect the escapement. The watch is dressed up rather wildly for the occasion as well, with the baseplate consisting of 35 gems of seven colours, each with a bespoke, geometric cut to offer a vibrant, angular landscape.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata
The Louis Vuitton Automata—the Automata, the one that has appeared now in several, lavishly decorated guises and which won a prize at the 2021 GPHG—pays a rather unexpected homage with this new edition. Albert Einstein, one of the finest minds who ever loved and whose scientific work still holds up as genius over a century later. His likeness is reproduced via painstaking micro-sculpture and grisaille enamel, alongside chalkboard scribblings that reference his work—though E=LV2, in this case, and will turn into OW2 (for ‘Only Watch’) as the power reserve wears down. Calibre 525 is back, its animations activated by a pusher disguised as a lock of hair: the hour is shown through an aperture on his forehead, one eye winks with the LV monogram, and his tongue sticks out in a reference to the famous photograph.
Jaquet Droz
It is a colourful year for Only Watch, allowing brands to venture where they typically do not—and one of the biggest surprises is from Jaquet Droz. This tiny atelier is known for its steadfast pursuit of the classics, but here we have an execution in riotous colour—and in a team-up with The Rolling Stones, no less! Some call them the greatest rock band of all time, and condensed in a 43mm diameter is a tiny set crafted out of gold blocks: Ronnie Wood’s and Keith Richards’ guitars, Charlie Watts’ drums, and Mick Jagger’s harmonica are all represented. These sit below the main time dial on a black stage, and beneath it is another hand-painted disc. This one holds an animated surprise—the pusher on the crown will set it spinning in psychedelic fashion, while the iconic tongue logo waggles. A power indicator sits at 9 o’clock, styled after the tonearm of a vinyl player.
Girard Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition
Girard Perregaux has crafted incredible timepieces for Only Watch since the auction’s second edition in 2007. For this year’s event, GP builds on its groundbreaking constant force technology with an evolution of the Constant Escapement L.M., which won the ‘Aiguille D’Or’ at the GPHG in 2013. The Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition features GP’s Constant Escapement, which provides a uniform supply of force to the regulating organ and thereby an extraordinary rate stability. Housed in a 45 mm rose gold case, the skeletonized dial puts the full movement on display with contrasting purple-hued silicium components to highlight the functionality. The watch is complete with a black rubber strap featuring a fabric effect look and a pink gold triple folding buckle.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon In Marble
For this exceptional occasion, Bulgari builds on its record-breaking Octo Finissimo line with a stunning marble variation five years in the making. Here, the brand takes the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon—known for its eight-year run as the world’s thinnest watch and instantly recognizable angular design—and gives the black DLC titanium polished case and bracelet a marble treatment while retaining a case thickness of just 0.60mm. With the one-of-a-kind Octo Finissimo Tourbillon in Marble for Only Watch, Bulgari exemplifies its mastery of craft and dedication to both Italian and Swiss tradition, applying marble named Verde Alpi from the Aosta Valley, the natural passage linking Switzerland and Italy though the Alps.
Moser X MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium
In addition, H. Moser & Cie and MB&F have teamed up for a second time on another truly unique timepiece for Only Watch: the H. Moser X MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium. Today the two brands tease their latest collaboration with some illusive imagery, including a miniature panda DJ. Three years ago in 2020, we saw Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser, the formidable forces behind H. Moser & Cie and MB&F, come together to create the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and LM10 in honor of both brands’ 15th anniversaries. Here, the two models combined the technical prowess and instantly recognizable aesthetic from both brands for the ultimate creations for independent watch brand enthusiasts. We can expect something similar from the dynamic duo for this year’s Only Watch, including a one-off movement developed exclusively for this occasion.
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Only Watch Edition
Chopard presented the first timepiece in its L.U.C. collection back in 1997, and for this year’s Only Watch, the brand builds on this incredible lineage with the L.U.C 1860 Only Watch Edition. This bold reissue of Chopard’s first watch within the L.U.C. collection features a modest 36.5mm case made of the brand’s exclusive alloy, Lucent Steel, and a solid white gold hand-guilloched dial with a pleasing ice green tint. The L.U.C 1860 Only Watch Edition is complete with an anthracite gray-grained calfskin leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching. Powering this stunning watch is the chronometer-certified L.U.C 96.40-L caliber. This movement is a variation of the very first L.U.C caliber, which marked the creation of the Chopard Manufacture watchmaking workshops in 1996.
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu
F.P. Journe has pulled out all the stops for the 10th edition of Only Watch. For the occasion, the brand unveils a world premiere and a new movement. The Chronomètre Furtif Bleu features a complete Tantalum case and bracelet and unique dial design. Here, the brand has paired a blue enamel dial with frosted numerals that are only revealed by the reflection of light. Flip the watch over, and you’ll see a stunning 18-karat rose gold movement—the new hand-wound caliber 1522—which features a moon phase and power reserve indicator integrated directly into the movement and only visible through the sapphire caseback.
Breguet Marine Hora Mundi Only Watch 2023
Breguet is proud to participate in the Only Watch charity auction once again with a variation of its Marine Hora Mundi watch launched last year. When the model first debuted in March of 2022, it broke ground as the first watch to allow you to change the time zone with a single click thanks to a patented mechanism and the brand’s caliber 77F1 movement. In addition to this technical feat, the Marine Hora Mundi Only Watch 2023 edition features a striking dial design with an array of textures and colors, all housed within a 43.9mm rose gold case. On the first gold base, there are hand-guilloché waves. Then, the sunburst blue dial background is engraved with “wave” decorations. An additional sapphire plate displays luminescent gold hour markers along with engraved and varnished navy blue continents dotted with rose gold accents.
Biver Catharsis
Earlier this year, the legendary Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre debuted his first namesake watch, the Carillon Tourbillon. For Only Watch, JC Biver watches premiers a new interpretation of the minute repeater Carillon Tourbillon with Catharsis. This wild and incredibly unique piece combines the unusual handcrafts of invisible gem setting, stone marquetry, and guilloché. The result is a watch that notably lacks hands on the dial and features no visible display of time. Instead, the dial displays a gorgeous scene with a starry sky made of silver obsidian punctuated with opal stars and a meteorite moon along with an ocean 89 sapphires skillfully set, seemingly at random to reflect natural waves. Ultimately, time shows only through the hour hand at the back of the watch.
Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch
One of the wildest watches we’ll see at the biennial Only Watch charity auction is Hublot’s MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch. With this piece, Hublot has once again collaborated with the acclaimed Japanese contemporary artist Takashi Murakami. Since 2020, Hublot and Murakami have worked together to create some exceptional limited-edition creations and now present their first piece unique for Only Watch. The MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch highlights the magic of the central tourbillon, which represents the fusion of art and horological design. In addition, floral composition is central to the work of Murakami. The result is a truly one-of-a-kind timepiece that takes the shape of a 12-petalled daisy set with 444 gemstones. The MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch is complete with an extra special touch from Murakami himself. Under the domed sapphire crystal is a fine laser engraving depicting a broad smile, complete with two smiling eyes.
Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Rainbow
Bell & Ross also offers us a fresh take on one of their iconic designs for this year’s Only Watch. The brand takes its BR 03 and gives it a colorful and futuristic twist. It features a full three-dimensional skeleton movement and oscillating weight complete with bridges made from DLC micro-blasted metal and micro-blasted metal hands enhanced with white SLN for optimal readability. The BR 03 Cyber Rainbow comes to life thanks to Bell & Ross’s rainbow treatment. Here, the brand has adorned s black DLC titanium case with colored varnished pieces that have been meticulously applied using a specialized process. The mosaic pattern continues onto the rubber strap thanks to a soft, colored material.
Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto ‘On Track’
For the 10th edition of Only Watch, Laurent Ferrier also drew on its past, harnessing the two founders’ passion for racing. In the 1970s, Laurent Ferrier and François Servanin forged a friendship on the racetrack at events like the iconic 24 Hours of Le Mans, which ultimately led to the creation of the Laurent Ferrier years later. Today, the brand harnesses the spirit that started it all with the Sport Auto “On Track” for Only Watch. This 41.5mm titanium watch features a distinctive dial with grained charcoal grey and black gradient shades that resemble the appearance of asphalt. On the outer edge of the dial, a track pattern alternating yellow and blue from seven o’clock to two o’clock, together with a white transfer from two o’clock to seven o’clock evokes the speed bumps delimiting the racetrack. Under the hood of the Sport Auto “On Track” is Laurent Ferrier’s second automatic calendar movement, the LF270.01.
Previously published on Robb Report. Additional timepieces by Wei-Yu Wang.
