As I Am By Chef Ton Marks The Celebrity Chef’s Second Venture In Malaysia

Throughout his career, the Thai celebrity chef has built a portfolio of restaurants with diverse concepts that celebrate the rich tapestry of his heritage. His extensive training and experience in fine-dining establishments naturally led to the opening of his flagship, Le Du, a one-Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant that emphasises seasonality. Another highlight is Nusara, created in honour of the chef’s late grandmother, who shaped his love for cooking. While Sood gave him the freedom to explore a more experimental, casual-modern Thai approach, As I Am is rooted in the traditional Thai concept of samrub—which celebrates the spirit of communal dining—but with a fresh, stylish twist. For Ton, this serves as a platform to share the stories behind traditional Thai dishes in an elevated expression.

It begins at the striking turquoise door, a playful hint of what the evening ahead has in store. Although the prelude courses are plated individually, every dish is infused with the warmth of togetherness. Take the Kanom Jeen Nam Prik Poo, for instance—a staple in Thai households and street markets, typically served at the centre of the table. Fermented rice noodles, crab meat, banana blossom, betel leaf and chilli paste come together as one. Alone, they are merely simple ingredients. “Here, we serve the dish to you individually, but the spirit of togetherness stays inside the bowl,” Ton says. “Even when the plate is yours, the feeling is ours.”

The hearth of home continues in the Isan beef consommé, traditionally made in Isan family kitchens and simmered for hours to extract flavour from bones, herbs and toasted rice. The version here captures the depth of slow-cooked tendon, the smokiness of toasted rice and the aroma of sawtooth coriander. Isan soups may be tangier and spicier, but their heartwarming essence recalls the familiar embrace of loved ones.

On the menu, each dish is named after an emotion, echoing the feelings drawn from Ton’s memories of them. Courage, for example, takes the form of southern grilled squid tentacle, paired with coconut cream, calamansi and Golae curry, which originates from the Muslim communities of southern Thailand. Although Thailand is renowned for its masterful use of chillies, compared to the more herb-focused dishes of the north, southern Thai curries tend to be bolder, richer and spicier—or, as the chef terms it, “fearless”. “Charcoal fire, bold spice, confident seasoning—nothing is softened, nothing is hidden,” Ton says. “When you taste this, you feel the spirit of the south: straightforward, proud and unafraid to speak the truth.”

For the main course, Ton presents a classic showcase of samrub, in which dishes are shared among diners. Maintaining balance in textures and flavours is key to these preparations. There’s the Nam Prik Long Rua, a dip recognised across Thailand. It is funky, salty, sweet and comforting. Naturally, it wouldn’t be a Thai meal without curry—in this case, a red curry duck with longan provides the intensity the meal demands. Accompanying these dishes is a plate of braised squid with squid ink, pennywort salad with scallops and stir-fried palm heart with prawns, designed to temper the spices, reset and anchor the meal. All of these dishes are brought together with a serving of fragrant white rice—an indispensable element in any Asian cuisine.

Even after the meal ends, the experience isn’t over at As I Am. Similar to the two-part layout of Sood, which features a bar space that doubles as a party zone, As I Am also hides a second restaurant, Recipe ‘N’ Dreams (RND), beyond the curtains. Guests seeking a more casual dining experience may stop by another time, or simply linger with cocktails and DJ beats to keep the energy flowing.

As I Am By Chef Ton