From Australian Farms To Malaysian Fire: The Story Behind Firewood Penang

Along the bustling Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling in Georgetown, steaks take centre stage at Firewood, quite literally refined by fire on a grill that reaches temperatures of up to 800° degrees Celsius. “We started with a focus on open-fire cooking, then began focusing heavily on steaks six months after opening. As a lifelong steak enthusiast, I started out wanting to create a steakhouse that could show Penangites how great steaks could be,” says Ker Yang Hao, chef-owner of Firewood Penang.

After stints at The St. Regis Singapore and Bread Street Kitchen by Gordon Ramsay at Marina Bay Sands Singapore, Ker returned to Malaysia at the age of 28 to open his own restaurant.

Four years on, his fire-led concept has earned Firewood a Michelin Selection, as well as a place on the World’s 101 Best Steak Restaurants list, where it ranks No. 76 as the first Malaysian restaurant to make the list. As the guide notes, “Firewood has established itself as one of Malaysia’s most distinctive fire-led restaurants.” Earlier this year, Firewood also expanded to Kuala Lumpur.  Ker notes, “Now that we’re on international lists, we also want people to come to Malaysia specifically to try the steaks here.”

Starting At The Source

“When I first started, it was quite difficult because suppliers here rarely understood that there are various kinds of steak. To them, it was simply about the cuts: sirloin, ribeye, or tenderloin. They didn’t really consider the breed or the animals’ diet, such as whether it was grain-fed or grass-fed. Even when I asked, they couldn’t answer my questions. I began researching and sourcing the meat myself because, for me, quality is paramount,” explains Ker. He personally favours grain-fed beef for its superior marbling and depth of flavour.

That was the starting point of Firewood’s sourcing journey. “I now travel to Australia several times a year to try different restaurants and discover different breeds to bring in steaks that aren’t commonly available. It’s not exactly a straightforward process, as Malaysia has halal certification requirements and there are many licenses involved, so the meat must go through a distributor,” he adds.

Ker elaborates, “I go directly to the farmers and ask if they’re interested in entering the Malaysian market and if they’re allowed to export their meat to Malaysia. If they are, I visit the farm and the feedlot to see how the animals are raised, what they eat, and even how they are slaughtered. A lot of that information rarely reaches the final customer here—things like how long it takes to process and trim the beef before it can be served. Then, I introduce the farmers to the distributor we work with in Malaysia. The farmers then liaise with the distributor, and we get the meat from them.”

From Pasture To Plate

At Firewood, Ker believes the ‘best steak’ comes down to personal preference. “We offer five different steaks. You can ask me what I like, and I can tell you, but I won’t tell you that one particular steak is the best because everyone has different preferences. Our bestseller is the Japanese A5 Miyazaki wagyu ribeye, which has a melt-in-your-mouth texture, but some find it too rich. Others prefer the Australian Angus tenderloin, which is very lean.”

“That’s why we bring in different cuts and varieties. There are two reasons for this. First, we want to show the quality of the meats. I’ve spent RM700 on wagyu only to receive a grey-coloured piece of meat. Secondly, we want to introduce our diners to different types of beef so they can choose according to their own preferences,” he says.

“The Korean Premium Halal Hanwoo sirloin is prized for its sweet aftertaste. It won’t be as soft as Japanese wagyu, but it has a very distinctive flavour.” In Malaysia, where premium beef is often synonymous with extraordinary tenderness, Ker believes in setting the right expectations. “I tell guests upfront that you need to chew it slightly more than the others. I set the expectation first. Then, when you try it, it’s exactly as I described,” explains Ker.

Where There’s Smoke

The 32-year-old shared, “I’m from Taiping, which is famous for charcoal. We use bakau charcoal, which comes from mangroves, and that’s how I represent Malaysia on our plates. The bakau imparts a distinctive smoky flavour that gives dishes a distinctly Malaysian character, while binchotan provides long-lasting, consistent heat.” Though bakau produces considerably more smoke, Ker’s carefully calibrated approach allows him to harness both to create layers of flavour without overwhelming diners.

“I always ask one question: ‘Will this technique make the ingredient better?’ If charcoal can bring out its flavour, we’ll never use fermentation, ageing, or another modern technique just for the sake of it. Here, the ingredient remains the main hero.”

Seventy per cent of Firewood’s guests are from overseas. Ker explains, “Many of them are afraid to eat hawker food because they worry about food poisoning. I want to introduce them to Malaysia through food. Unfortunately, I can’t use Malaysian beef because the supply isn’t there. My fiancée and I went to Shanghai and tried a steak with mala spice. The steak was from Japan but, after trying the mala spice, she said, ‘Wow, this really feels like China.’ That gave me an idea. I came back and told the team, ‘Let’s do something Malaysian.’ Guests can dip their steaks in hae bee hiam, a popular chilli and dried shrimp condiment in Malaysia, or tamarind sauce, widely used in iconic dishes like asam pedas (spicy sour fish stew). They can also start the meal with homemade brioche toast and rendang (a beloved Malaysian rich, dry meat curry) butter.”

Indulgent accompaniments further elevate the experience, from Kaviari Paris caviar with crème fraîche and buttery blinis, to an exceptional drinks list featuring Château Pétrus 1993, Château Lafite Rothschild 2020, The Macallan 18-Year-Old Sherry Oak, and Dom Pérignon P2 Plénitude 2 Vintage 2004 Brut.

“The protein can still come from another country that produces great beef, but we can make the sauce or spices Malaysian and use them to complement the meat. It contains ingredients such as paprika and anchovies, and guests can try it themselves. The idea is that travellers can experience Malaysia through the spices and flavours.”

Firewood

Lead image: There is no official sommelier, but Ker Yang Hao obtained his WSET Level 2 Award in Wines to better understand wine pairings and complement his dishes.

Photography= Norlman Lo