Chef Beh ‘Weng’ Chia, Penang’s Dining Trailblazer, Unveils His Latest Izakaya, Moku Moku

For years, Penang has been widely regarded as Malaysia’s gastronomic capital, but its culinary identity was rooted in hawker stalls and kopitiams, laid-back eateries, and seafood houses, with more formal dining experiences largely found within the island’s hotels and resorts. However, that slowly started to change with the introduction of establishments such as Cassis, one of Penang’s first independent fine-dining spots, which opened in 2009. The menu was quite ambitious for its time: Dutch albacore tuna, cooked medium-rare and drizzled with truffle cream and fragrant chervil, alongside Pacific halibut with smoked eel, zucchini, and fennel purée.

Helmed by chef Beh Weng Chia, better known as chef Weng, he has quietly but steadily played a hand in shaping the island’s modern dining scene for years, moving between refined fine dining and more casual dining concepts. In recent years, Penang has developed a burgeoning culinary scene, further bolstered by the arrival of the Michelin Guide.

A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu in the United States, Weng honed his craft across the globe, in Salzburg, San Francisco, and across Australia, before returning to his hometown of Penang. He brought an internationally informed approach to the island’s culinary scene, combining his overseas experience with contemporary cooking rather than simply replicating the conventions of Western fine dining. Penangites will recognise the names of his former ventures: the highly acclaimed Indigo Restaurant inside Penang’s iconic Cheong Fatt Tze – The Blue Mansion, the popular Chin Chin Gastropub in Pulau Tikus, modern grill restaurant Chez Weng, and, more recently, Tono Izakaya. His footprint has also extended to Kuala Lumpur, from the now-shuttered LUT Gastrobar to Niku Niku, a hidden gem in Bangsar Shopping Centre that continues to welcome diners.

Follow The Smoke

Opening in early August 2026, Moku Moku, which means ‘billowing smoke’, “is all about creating a place where friends and family can dine, drink, and have a good time together, while enjoying high-quality, unpretentious Japanese food without breaking the bank,” says Weng.

Housed in two heritage shophouses along Jalan Kek Chuan in George Town, the interiors echo the idea of billowing smoke through undulating, rock-like textures and warm, atmospheric lighting that evoke drifting smoke and glowing embers.

Chef Weng shows that a restaurant can take its cooking seriously without requiring a formal dining room. “At Moku Moku, I prefer to keep the preparation simple and let the quality of the ingredients speak for itself. The Blue Swimmer Crab with corn was inspired by my time in the US, bringing together the natural umami of the crab with the sweetness of corn. Sometimes, the best approach is simply to let good ingredients shine,” he elaborates.

My personal favourite from the menu was the Engawa Don with Ikura. “It is a familiar Japanese combination that you can find in many restaurants. What distinguishes ours is the precision of the marinade and the balance between savoury and sweet flavours. It is about taking something simple and executing it beautifully,” shares Weng.

More Dishes At Moku Moku

Other highlights include Australian wagyu beef tongue, prized for its rich flavour and delicate texture, alongside jumbo tiger prawns, breaded and fried to a crisp, golden finish and served with tangy gribiche. The sashimi selection is meticulously sliced to showcase the natural character of each fish, with otoro offering a rich, melt-in-the-mouth texture, while hamachi belly brings a deeper, more buttery richness than the traditional cut. Our final take? The menu was remarkably consistent, with every dish earning its place at the table.

He adds, “Diners can come for the food and stay for the drinks. We serve the classic tipples you would expect at an izakaya, complemented by a considered selection of chu-hi and highballs. They are refreshing and pair naturally with our raw and grilled dishes.” This includes Tanso (peated whisky, soda, and apple juice) as well as Ume (shochu, ume, and soda). If you prefer, order sake such as the Kuheiji Junmai Daiginjo Yamadanishiki Eau Du Desir by the carafe.

With Moku Moku, Weng continues to evolve his culinary repertoire, delivering a refined yet convivial izakaya experience that adds another distinctive chapter to Penang’s ever-evolving dining scene. Gourmets will have another reason to keep an eye on Weng, with Hutong set to open soon. Come lunchtime, expect comforting favourites; after dark, the kitchen shifts gears with a contemporary take on Nanyang Chinese cuisine.