The first – and only – Krug Chef’s Table in Asia at James Won’s Enfin
Grand culinary adventures are the result of the creative partnership between Kuala Lumpur’s celebrated chef James Won and the house of Krug. At the recently established Enfin by James Won, the private Krug Chef’s Table offers diners an exploration into the numerous dimensions of Krug’s cuvees.
The fact that only five other Krug Chef’s Tables exist in the world – at Guy Savoy in Las Vegas and Amber Room in Warsaw, for instance – makes it an even more impressive debut. Here, Krug’s philosophy of champagne as the essence of pleasure and Won’s sharply intelligent approach towards food are brought into clear focus.
Separated from the main area of the restaurant by a spiral staircase, Krug Chef’s Table seats up to 20 diners. Such is Won’s dedication to bringing forth the heart and soul of the maison that even the mirrored tiles on the ceiling match the shape of the diamonds found within Krug’s logotype.
It is Won’s cooking, of course, which enables the personality of Krug’s champagnes to surface in the most unique way. The first offering of a gastronomic series is focused entirely on the house’s Grand Cuvee, detailing its exceptional freshness and complexity. A playful amuse bouche, for instance, toys with a traditional combination of champagne and strawberries by sandwiching berries between scallops, cream cheese and crisp brioche toast.
Three bold entrees, all infused with flavours of the ocean, bring out the richness of the Grand Cuvee – a blend of over 120 wines from 10 or more years – in lavish style. A trio of caviar, ikura, tobiko roe heaped atop a disc of black garlic and almond tofu reveal the champagne’s notes of roasted almond and spun honey.
Meanwhile, a dish of handmade pasta bathed in sea urchin, miso-cured egg yolk and slow-cooked egg yolk in prawn oil serve as a possible nod to Won’s involvement in the upcoming Krug and Egg book.
A decadent plat principal of French abalone, abura bouzu, cod milt, cep mushrooms and fondant potato in a saffron and lobster reduction highlight the vibrant stone fruit flavours of the Krug Grand Cuvee. As a fitting end, dessert comprises an Opera chocolate dome a la Enfin to enliven the palate. This sweet surrender pays homage to the champagne’s velvety, effervescent finish, driving home the message of the winning traits that define the house of Krug.
