The Ember Curates: Andrew And Friends Chef Series At One&Only Desaru Coast Is The Start Of Michelin-Starred Adventures To Come

What happens when ‘nua Irish’ cuisine from the Emerald Isle meets the delicate precision of French cooking? This was the question on the table at Ember Beach Club in One&Only Desaru Coast, which held the first edition of its new culinary series, Ember Curates: Andrew and Friends, a few months ago. Andrew Walsh, the creator of Ember Beach Club’s fire-driven culinary concept and chef-owner of Cure in Singapore, invited Julien Royer – the French maestro behind Odette at the National Gallery Singapore – to join him in the kitchen.

“Julien and I go back years,” Walsh says, adding that the two chefs – who share a total of five Michelin stars between them – were planning to tap into their “great friendship” during the dinner. “Everything starts from the produce – that’s something we agree on,” Royer said, when asked which culinary philosophies they had in common. “We both rely on ingredients and seasonality. No good ingredients, no good cuisine – it’s the basic principle of cooking.”

From left: Chef Julien Royer, and Chef Andrew Walsh

With the impressive prowess of both chefs’ suppliers on show, Royer opened the evening with Saint-Nectaire croquettes and miniature tacos filled with shiso-laced saba mackerel. Walsh answered with beetroot-cured salmon cones and a cheekily elevated interpretation of a Tayto cheese and onion crisp sandwich – an after-school snack beloved by children across Ireland. A poached Gallagher oyster with samphire and butter sauce established the dinner’s marine-focused framework, followed by an exquisite carpaccio of hand-dived scallops dressed with edible snow.

Nostalgia also had a heightened presence at the meal: Walsh’s butter-poached lobster arrived on a bed of colcannon – a traditional Irish dish of potatoes mashed with cabbage – and crowned with a generous portion of N25 caviar. Sharing portions of aromatic bouillabaisse packed with dazzlingly fresh carabineros prawns, octopus, coquillages, kinmedai fish, and a saffron rouille – a classic addition from Royer’s second restaurant in Singapore, Claudine – conjured an atmosphere of relaxed conviviality.

In a nod to their respective Irish and French backgrounds, Walsh’s final entrée was an intensely rich, buttery Beef Rossini made with Irish Wagyu and a Guinness stout sauce, eaten with a tartare of beef trimmings, dripping, truffle ketchup, and foie gras on toast. Royer’s dessert, however, was pure Odette: a light-as-air yuzu t’art constructed from a shiso and basil mousse, saké sorbet, and a shortbread sablé Breton, as artfully curated and created as Ember Beach Club’s collaboration itself.

One&Only Desaru Coast

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