Amidst a sea of omakase establishments, Komorebi Dining hopes to stand out with a concept that is relatively unheard of in Penang: Kappo dining. Meaning ‘to cut and to cook’, kappo differs from omakase as it comprises a wider array of dishes, while the latter is typically linked with sushi and tempura. Almost artistic in presentation, diners interact closely with the chefs who guide them in consuming the dishes.
Helming the kitchen of the new 12-seater restaurant along the bustling Rope Walk (or Jalan Pintal Tali) is chef-owner Wayne Eng, who hails from Penang. Eng also personally created the intimate space, with its warm tones and calm ambiance reflecting the name Komorebi, which alludes to sunlight filtered through the leaves of the trees. The ceiling is adorned with a skylight made of painstakingly furled paper, while custom-made crockery from Kyoto and Tokyo acts as a canvas for the chef’s ideas and enriches each course.
Eng decided to return to his roots after garnering more than two decades of experience at various kitchens, including 15 years at the well-loved establishment Shinji by Kanesaka at The Ritz-Carlton Hotel and The St. Regis locations in Singapore. The fabulous one-Michelin-starred restaurant is an extension by Chef Shinji Kanesaka, who owns a two-Michelin-starred sushi temple in the upscale Ginza district in Tokyo.
At Shinji, Eng was under the tutelage of chefs from Tokyo and Kyoto in the kitchens, starting from the bottom and working his way up by doing menial tasks for several years before progressing to learning culinary skills. Harsh punishments were doled out for mistakes, which he says, “Now I appreciate it because it truly brings you to another level. I can now confidently say I can handle any type of ingredient that is placed in front of me.”
Characteristic of kappo dining, each dish employs the finest of seasonal ingredients, with the menu curated based on the availability of ingredients from Japan. Displaying his devotion to excellence, Eng personally creates the courses with only the help of his sous chef, a former colleague from Shinji by Kanesaka, as they work in perfect synergy.
During my visit, one of the starters was the Chawanmushi, the classic Japanese savoury custard given an elevated twist with the use of Matsutake mushrooms, a contender for the world’s most expensive ingredient (it was RM2,800 per kilogram for this particular batch). Its pleasant aroma wafted into the air as soon as the cup was opened, and diners were given a close-up look at the raw ingredient to fully appreciate the king of mushrooms.
Each spoonful of the Chawanmushi offered pleasant contrasts between the silky custard and the earthy and rich yet delicate flavours of the Matsutake. A perfect balance was created between the citrus notes from a yuzu glaze alongside the savoury broth.
This transitioned to a generous seasonal platter: a trio of the bounty of Japan’s ocean and a combination of Shimegi and Matsukake mushrooms. Amongst this was slow-cooked octopus, or fresh tako, which gave me the pleasant surprise of being so tender, it melted in my mouth. The pièce de resistance of the platter was a female snow crab from Hokkaido, a winter delicacy that requires prodigious skill in extracting its flesh and is only available for a short window of six weeks. The sweet flesh was combined with creamy uni, the succulent texture of maitake mushroom and the pleasant bitter undertone of crunchy ginkgo nuts.
In between courses, we were served liquid libations such as sake from the Aramasa Sake Brewery from the Akita Perfecture, which Eng told us is difficult to procure even in Japan; it boasted a fruity aroma and a smooth aftertaste.
In between light-hearted banter with the chef, one of the highlights of the meal was served: unagi from Nagoya, a decadent pleasure full of rich flavour. This was carefully skewered and seared over premium Japanese Tosa Binchotan charcoal, which gave the tender eel a distinctive taste and locked in its juiciness. This sat on a bed of sunflower seed purée and charred roasted cauliflowers, which allowed the luxurious eel to shine.
The eight-course dinner menu is priced at RM650, while their 7-course lunch menu is priced at RM300. Reservations and deposits are required.
Photography: Law Soo Phye
