The powder snow that abounds in Niseko, Hokkaido, every winter is world-famous. Alpine enthusiasts descend upon Mount Niseko Annupuri in droves to ski, schuss, board, and get selfies on its unbelievably soft, pillowy snow. But when it gets warmer and the slopes, paths and trails burst forth into vibrant, varying shades of green, travellers depart as quickly as Mikaela Shriffrin speeds down a giant slalom race. That’s a terrible shame, though, because Hokkaido in spring and summer is woefully underrated—especially in Niseko, with its breathtaking natural beauty headlined by Mount Yotei. And the best place to soak it all in is in Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve.
Located about a two-hour drive from Sapporo or New Chitose Airport, Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve is one of five accommodation options in Niseko Village. It opened in December 2020, is the first Ritz-Carlton Reserve in Japan, and is one of only seven Ritz-Carlton Reserves worldwide. It has 50 rooms and suites, but the most in-demand are the Yotei Suites, of which there are only six. These 98sqm suites have a living room, a dining room and one bedroom; connects to a Twin room if guests would like; and, most importantly, boasts jaw-dropping views of Mount Yotei. Seen in winter, the mountain—affectionately known as ‘mini Fuji’—is spectacular; seen in summer, it’s absolutely breathtaking.
The first thing I notice as I’m welcomed warmly in the lobby is that it doesn’t feel like a typical Japanese accommodation or luxury hotel. Neither is it trying to be too gimmicky by overflowing with Japanese stereotypes, nor is it a soulless, ultra-minimalist boutique hotel that could be from anywhere on earth. Yolande Hu, hotel manager of Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, tells me that the hotel strives for a modernist approach, with plenty of emphasis on nature in the design and decor. “We also have a lot of local plants and flowers that change seasonally all throughout the hotel,” she tells me. “You’ll see a lot of Japanese influences everywhere, but there are also interesting touches here and there—like those flower pots that come from Malaysia.” The Malaysian elements don’t stop there either, as original artworks, sculptures and installations by Malaysian artist Frank Woo are omnipresent in the hotel too. From a 2.5m gold-plated sculpture outside by the entrance to multi-panel paintings on every floor by the elevators, Woo’s tributes to the wonders of Niseko are everywhere you look—including up and hanging from the ceiling.
During the green season, guests of Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve rightfully venture to the great outdoors to immerse in the spirit of kachou fugetsu, or the Japanese philosophy of celebrating the manifold beauties of nature. Under the guidance of the Higashiyama Reservists, one could hike up Mount Yotei, go e-cycling around Lake Toya, or explore nearby attractions and visit a tofu shop, a farmer’s market, and the ever-popular Milk Kobo for dairy delights. Also, located within Niseko Village are two world-class golf courses—Niseko Village Golf Course and Niseko Golf Course—as well as PURE, which is a must-book for adrenaline junkies with its Rail Slider and the longest zipline tour in the country. But I opt for more leisurely strolls around the hotel, indulgent dips in its private onsen, as well as a 60-minute deep tissue massage at Spa Chasi La Sothys. The word chasi is the local indigenous Ainu word for sanctuary, and it is here that I am healed from the stresses of the rat race—thanks to the expert hands of the masseuse, paired with land-sourced ingredients and the French techniques that La Sothys is globally renowned for.
You could spend days in the hotel yet never eat (and enjoy) the same thing twice at its all-day dining Yukibana restaurant. The breakfast buffet spread alone is worth waking up for, but even more so are the Niseko Eggs Benedict. Nay Win Q, food & beverage manager, recommends one egg to be served with Hokkaido King Crab Cake, and the other with Hokkaido Wagyu Tenderloin. I’m still thinking about those eggs until today. If your day excursions haven’t brought you too far away, then you must try the Shiretoko Chicken Soup Curry for lunch—just set aside your Malaysian predilections and try a different yet divine kind of Hokkaido curry. For dinner, Yukibana offers the six-course Kazabana menu as well as the four course Reserve Story menu. Asking me to choose between them would be like me asking you which child is your favourite.
No stay at Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve would be complete without dining at Sushi Nagi, helmed by head chef Tsuneyoshi Taira. The omakase-only, dinner-only establishment seats only seven, so make your reservations as soon as you’ve booked your suites. Chef Taira is a bona fide shokunin (artisan or craftsman) of sushi, elevating fresh fish and expertly made shari (sushi rice) into masterpieces for the palate. He speaks English well, too, and is worth chatting with when he’s not busy perfecting your next course. Paired with sensational sake and views of Mount Yotei, my dinner here is unequivocally ichigoichie—a uniquely precious experience.
There are many Japanese words, concepts, and philosophies that are difficult to translate into English. One of them is kami, which is often interpreted as god, deity, spirit, or divinity. But instead of trying to wrap my head around it too much, I simply let myself go, be in the moment, and experience the power of the kami-sama here in Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve. Whether it’s purifying myself in its onsen waters or eating fresh tempura soba, going for a walk among the birch trees or in nearby Niseko-yo, I can feel the energy of the land permeate all around. And it is in that instant, one of utter joy and inner peace, that I truly embrace the soul of Niseko.
From now until 30 November 2024, Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve is offering The Reserve Story, which includes breakfast for two and a four-course tasting dinner for two (paired with local wine) at Yukibana; from ¥60,000 (RM1,782) per room.
More photos of the summer activities at Higashiyama Niseko Village
