There is something for everyone within the Diageo Special Releases 2024. But there always is. It has been some two decades of this annual collection from drinks titan Diageo and, with such an impressive array of whisky distilleries in its portfolio, there is always something to suit. This is the second straight year with the theme of ‘Spirited Xchange’, which is meant to ask ‘what if?’. The collection sees an experimental approach from master blender Dr Stuart Morrison, particularly with wine cask maturation.
As always, the assemblage of eight whiskies is an eclectic bunch. There are the stalwarts, but there is a twist: the 12-year-old Lagavulin has an unexpected sweetness, while the eight-year-old Talisker has been aged in casks that have been stone-spun, wearing away the char before being re-toasted and imparting a pronounced orchard fruit note over the usual salty smokiness. The sophomore appearance of Roseisle, Diageo’s youngest distillery, is here as a 12-year-old once again—and, like before, a straightforward but amenable ex-bourbon interpretation. Mortlach, the only non-age statement, has a couple of exotic (by whisky standards, anyway) wine casks in it—Ramandolo white and Sangiovese red, which have only enhanced the distillery’s muscular, savoury signature. The Singleton of Glen Ord presents itself as a 14-year-old, combining ex-bourbon with rejuvenated wine and a dash of Pyrenean oak that ups its complexity and spiciness. Oban, at 10 years old, is the lightest of the crew, finished in oloroso-seasoned American oak casks, and well-balanced with classic tones of honey and vanilla.
Inevitably, there are standouts, as arguable as they may be. The first, Benrinnes, is the most evolved expression at 21 years old. Like all of these releases, it is bottled at cask strength—55.4 per cent ABV, in this case. It was matured for eight years in refill casks, then a further 13 across the classic American and European dichotomy, as well as rejuvenated casks with charred ends. Nicknamed ‘Grand Crescendo’, it is confidently fruit-forward but elegant, tempered with the sophistication of wood, leather, tobacco, and chocolate all the way through its long, long finish.
The second is Caol Ila, ‘Ambrosial Feast’, an 11-year-old whisky. Caol Ila is an exemplar of smoky, peaty Islay whiskies, but this 57.3 per cent ABV expression is the rare unpeated one. Smoke is thus just a memory, and the spirit—matured in refill and rejuvenated ex-wine casks—is in greater focus, offering itself through layers of creamy nuttiness and a sparkle of apple and pear.
