Chef Su Kim Hock is arguably Penang’s most decorated chef, winning numerous awards, including a one knife ‘excellent’ at The Best Chef Awards for his one-Michelin-starred restaurant Au Jardin and becoming part of the prestigious Krug Ambassades list. Gastronomes from far and near place reservations far in advance for one of the limited seats at Au Jardin. However, during a recent six-hands dinner, An Ode to Chinese Chinoise, Su allowed Chef Leo Lo of Taipei’s one-Michelin-starred Circum to take centre stage. “Tonight is Lo’s day to shine and we’re just along for the ride,” Su said. “You’re about to experience dishes that come together in a beautiful culinary homage to delicate Chinese ingredients and flavours crafted with refined European culinary skill, all with a hint of romanticism.”
Su first met Lo during his days in Taiwan, where the former used to own and helm a French bistro and once represented Taiwan in the San Pellegrino Young Chef competition. At Circum, Lo leads a young kitchen team in an exploration of Chinese culinary heritage and its circular journey through history and across territories, which are then reinvented using innovative techniques. Joining them in crafting the feast was Su’s long-time friend and collaborator, Chef Johnson Wong of Gēn and Communal Table by Gēn, both listed in Penang’s Michelin guide. The trio took on the challenge of coming up with a menu that showcased their individual strengths, while still harmonising with each other for a one-night-only dinner.
The extraordinary meal began with an amuse-bouche trifecta that evoked the visual flair of the chinoiserie, including a Chicken Terrine by Su. The savoury chicken terrine was elevated by the natural sweetness of the cured and cooked mud crab, whose flavours burst in the mouth. This was cleverly finished with a tuile in the silhouette of a crab (ironically made with prawn), which added a crisp, umami-laced finish that tied the dish together.
As part of the principal courses, Lo presented the Night Jasmine (Ye Lai Xiang, also an iconic Mandarin song by the late Taiwanese singer Teresa Teng). “Night Jasmine isn’t just a familiar song or a flower. In the memory of Taiwanese people, it’s also the fragrance that drifts through the streets at night from noodle shops waiting for people coming off work,” Lo said. “The main inspiration for this dish comes from my late-night, go-to spot after work, a beef noodle shop. We’ve combined spiced wagyu fat, century egg, and crackers to reinterpret the classic Taiwanese late-night combo: braised beef noodles with chilled century egg.” The noodles were interpreted into a crispy cracker whose crunchiness paired perfectly with the tingling spice of Szechuan peppers, the creamy depth of the chilled century egg yolk, and the umami notes of the tartare.
Another memorable main dish was the Cherry Valley Duck by Wong, a favourite ingredient of his, displaying his devotion to the exploration and development of Malaysian ingredients and local flavours. “Our Cherry Valley duck from Balik Pulau, Penang, reflects a farmer’s care that was then elevated through layers and textures that reveal its full potential,” Wong said. At once deeply savoury and succulent, the duck’s richness was balanced by tangy pickled shiitake mushrooms and the aromatic lift of dragon chives sauce. A silky egg yolk emulsion added depth, while cured duck intensified the umami and duck fat crisp brought a gorgeous crunch to each bite.
More Dishes From The Dinner
The evening was truly a masterclass in collaboration, with each chef bringing their distinct voice to the table to create a seamless symphony of exquisite and visionary dishes.
