Before south Korean pop culture became a global phenomenon, the nation had long expressed its culinary values through structure, etiquette, and seasonal balance. In contrast to loud culinary styles, hansik (South Korean cuisine) leans toward poised and purposeful simplicity—a reflection of Confucian principles adopted during the Joseon dynasty. Time is treated as an ingredient, as seen in 24-hour slow-cooked broths, fermented condiments, and brewed beverages. Yet, for years, much of this was overshadowed by familiar classics such as South Korean barbecue, kimchi, and fiery stews. So, how did South Korea’s age-old culinary traditions find their place in the world’s Michelin guides?
The launchpad came in 2009 when the South Korean government introduced the Korean Food Globalisation Project, a nationwide initiative aimed at putting hansik on the global gastronomic map. Since then, a growing movement of South Korean chefs has reframed hansik from comfort food to high art, ushering in a cultural renaissance both within South Korea and abroad. Now, the ripple has reached Southeast Asia’s shores. “With Korean culture and food being shared with a wider audience through shows such as Chef & My Fridge and Culinary Class Wars, I can see that Southeast Asians are more exposed and curious about Korean food,” said Olivia Lee.
A pioneer in her field, Lee broke ground as the first South Korean female chef at the Burj Al Arab and has worked in Michelin-starred kitchens in Paris. At home, she serves as a private chef to South Korea’s most prominent figures, while abroad, she consults on exclusive dining experiences and supplies premium South Korean produce to some of the world’s top restaurants. Among the many treasures Lee champions, she believes seafood is one of South Korea’s greatest natural assets. “Our seas and climate play a big part in the sheer variety of seafood we’ve grown up eating,” she explained. “The flavour and texture are truly special, and I’ve always felt they should be shared with the world.”
It’s this entrepreneurial instinct that brought Lee to Malaysia, where she orchestrated a one-off tasting menu crafted in collaboration with one-Michelin-starred Eatanic Garden’s chef Son Jong Won and Potager’s chef Masashi Horiuchi. While the chefs brought contrasting influences to the table, their shared respect for ingredient integrity shone through—especially in dishes featuring South Korea’s ocean harvests, imported through Lee’s latest venture, Plan New. “I have followed both chef Son and chef Masashi’s careers for a while,” Lee shared, “and when we were looking for chefs to showcase the finest Korean seafood in our launch, it was a no-brainer to pair them together.”
Although they had never cooked together before, both chefs had long admired each other from afar. “I follow chef Masashi on Instagram and have admired his philosophy of food,” Son said. “In today’s world, it’s refreshing to see someone who still adheres to French techniques and combines them beautifully with his Japanese sensibility.” Horiuchi, in turn, was taken with Son’s creative approach to his own heritage: “I spent most of my career in Europe, and it’s only recently that I have been learning more about Korean cuisine and techniques. Chef Son has been doing wonderful things in this area, and it’s really admirable.”
Bite-sized and delicately assembled, the amuse-bouche arrived like miniature works of art—from Potager’s tansho-grilled eel pie and silver belt fish tarte to Eatanic Garden’s mussel japchae. Of the selection, however, the parae seaweed crane brought a moment of pause for its arresting presentation. Earthy and crisp, the folded crane resembled a graceful bird perched atop a bed of edible flowers. It felt almost too beautiful to eat, as though one were plucking a precious object from a blooming garden.
Such fluidity could only arise from the innate understanding between both chefs, one that developed more naturally than expected. “We very quickly found our feet together, and one of the biggest compliments we got was how seamlessly the dishes from both restaurants melded with each other, as if we were one kitchen, one menu,” Horiuchi said. Son shared a similar reflection, adding that “International collaborations are always fun yet challenging, but chef Masashi and I were able to come together quickly and creatively after a few calls, and working in the kitchen together was a harmonious process.”
Son found the abalone and Hanwoo beef course one of the most challenging to perfect. “It was a tricky one to achieve in terms of texture, and it went through quite a process,” he said. “I’m very pleased to present this very traditional combination in a new way.” His snow crab dish, served cold with nakji (baby octopus), seasonal fruits, pine nut dressing, and fermented soy with dalrae, best reflected his culinary identity. “It showcases my love for hansik in the beautiful cuisine ingredients that pay homage to tradition, yet have so much room to play and innovate.”
For Horiuchi, his culinary voice came through in the Jeju red tilefish ‘ok-dom’ amadai. This was served with a crispy skin fry, paired with snow and white fungus, jellyfish, scallop, and seaweed, then finished tableside with a warm pour of abalone reduction.
Among the many unsung heroes of hansik, Lee champions the perilla leaf—a soft, serrated herb with a flavour profile that’s hard to forget. “They don’t get as much attention as basil or mint, but they have this amazing, slightly nutty, aromatic flavour that’s really unique,” Lee said. “It’s a Korean pantry staple used in stews, salads, pickles, and as fragrant wrappers for grilled meat. They’re super versatile and nutritious. I believe once people try them, they’ll get hooked instantly.”
The South Korean seafood featured in the menu is now available for purchase at Culina, Shoppes at Four Seasons Place.
