Penang has long been celebrated as a food capital, famed for its legendary street food culture. Yet, fine dining is a scene that has only begun to flourish in recent years. Recently, two of Thailand’s top chefs, Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij and Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn, came together for a two-night, four-hands dinner at Sood by Chef Ton in the heart of George Town. The exclusive event sold out in just two hours—a clear sign that the island is poised to step onto the global fine dining stage.
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Ton is the chef-owner of Bangkok’s Le Du, which boasts one Michelin star and was voted No.1 on The Best Restaurant in Asia 2023 list. In 2025, Ton became the first Thai chef in history to have two restaurants—Le Du and Nusara—simultaneously listed on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Meanwhile, Pam has made her name as the chef-owner of Potong in Bangkok, which has garnered one Michelin star along the way. She was also named The World’s Best Female Chef 2025 by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, making her the first-ever Asian and Thai female chef to achieve this distinction.
Ton said, “Our friendship goes back many years and, while we’ve joined forces at numerous culinary events in larger groups, this is our first time creating a four-hands dinner, just the two of us. Sood will highlight Thai cuisine, while Chef Pam brings Thai-Chinese influences, coming together in a seamless menu.”
Pam added, “This marks my inaugural visit to Penang as well as my debut event here. I find it a truly charming city, reminiscent of Bangkok’s Chinatown with its heritage houses where Potong is located. For the occasion, I’ve brought some of my signature dishes from Potong, including my signature Pad Thai.”

The dish transforms a humble street dish into a fine-dining experience. The Pad Thai features a tiger prawn (sourced locally for the Penang version) and silky rice noodles naturally tinted in the colours of the Thai flag. Two bites were enough to release a burst of layered flavours from the tang of fermented radish, the briny depth of dried shrimp, and a punch of umami from the shrimp shot.

Next, highly commended by guests and my favourite dish for the night, came the Hokkaido pan-seared scallop, served with golden-brown brioche, which was perfect for soaking up every last drop of the rich satay peanut sauce and peanut vinaigrette—an elegant nod to the nation’s culinary heritage.
Instead of the usual Tom Yam, Tom Som—a comforting, traditional dish from Southern Thailand—arrived mid-course as a sour and spicy interlude. Its light broth paired squid with papaya and cauliflower in surprising harmony. Som khwai, or buffalo orange, a native plant of Phuket, lent the dish its distinctive sourness, which was a refreshing contrast to the more intensely aromatic profile of Tom Yam.

The A5 Miyazaki Beef was also a standout, braised in a sweet Thai-style sauce and served over vegetables and black rice. The latter was enveloped in Nam Prik Long Ruea, a chili paste allegedly dating back to King Rama V’s era, which added gentle heat, savoury depth, and a hint of sweetness to balance the dish.
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Ultimately, the four-hands dinner eschewed the usual formula of each chef presenting one dish each. The dishes, with the exception of Chef Pam’s Pad Thai, was a true meeting of minds where their shared culinary philosophies and friendship seamlessly intertwined. All the distinct tastes—salty, sour, sweet, and spicy—came together in one harmonious meal as a worthy testament to two of Thailand’s leading culinary chefs at the pinnacle of their careers.
Photography by Norlman Lo
