Both forerunners in their own right, Potager Kuala Lumpur’s chef Masashi Horiuchi and Odette Singapore’s chef Julien Royer illustrated their deep love for terroir in a recent collaborative four-hands feast, demonstrating reverence and temperance in their cooking approaches while championing artisanal producers and creatives. This joint endeavour—reputed for its limited seating capacity—sold out within just 10 minutes, leaving a fervour of anticipation among discerning gourmands. Although Royer has visited Malaysia twice prior to this collaboration, this marked his first culinary venture in Kuala Lumpur. “This endeavour indicated two first experiences for me: my first time sharing the kitchen with chef Masashi and cooking here in Kuala Lumpur,” Royer said. “His love for nature and independent purveyors resonates deeply with the philosophy we uphold at Odette.”
Housed at the emblematic National Gallery Singapore, Odette is a three-Michelin-starred modern French establishment co-founded by Royer and was recognised as The Best Restaurant in Asia at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 Awards. Royer also clinched the coveted Estrella Damm Chefs’ Choice title, the only peer-voted award of the ceremony, as well as Restaurateur of the Year title from the acclaimed Les Grandes Tables du Monde in 2022.
Royer was born into a family of fourth-generation farmers in Cantal, a rural department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of France, where he spent his childhood diligently scavenging and harvesting in his family’s backyards. These undertakings instilled in him an abiding appreciation for the bounty of Mother Nature. Today, those formative years have continued to shape his philosophy, motivating him to bring authenticity to the table. While rooted in the principles of French cuisine, his time in Asia has imbued his spirit with a distinct sense of place.
Meanwhile, in just six months since its opening last September, Potager has surged forward under the leadership of Horiuchi, with a comprehensive dining affair that celebrates the industrious hands behind it. Accumulating numerous local accolades, Potager has rapidly become a must-visit destination for both residents and visitors to Kuala Lumpur. With a focus on precision and ingredient provenance, both chefs utilised French techniques in a specially curated menu that spotlighted a plenitude of high-quality produce. “Sharing this journey alongside chef Julien, my dear friend of nearly a decade and an exceptional talent, was truly something special,” Horiuchi said. “It gave us a chance to push the limits of our Potager team while honouring Malaysia’s local terroir and producers hand in hand with Odette.”
With keen expectation, I basked in this leisurely eight-course lunch spanning about three hours, accompanied by six wine pairings. It commenced with a glass of Champagnes Larmandier-Bernier Blanc de Blancs Terre de Vertus 2016, a 100-per cent Chardonnay with a luminous straw hue. It maintained a full-bodied presence on the palate, and offered a saline touch amid its ripe profile, which complemented our welcoming dish—an amuse-bouche featuring creations from both Potager and Odette. This quartet consisted of a green pea and caviar tart with caviar locally sourced from Tanjong Malim; confit duck with foie gras; Saint Nectaire cheese doughnut; and Botan Ebi taco with yuzu kosho, shisho leaf and salsa.
We then delved into the main signatures of Potager and Odette as we carried on with a mushroom tea and cep brioche, which received a pleasant reception from my palate. Our second wine pairing was Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Blanc Les Moulins 2020, a natural wine that culminated in a nice savoury finish. This set the stage for Odette’s Murasaki Uni, Carabinero and Kristal caviar, coupled with a dainty Potager loaf of sourdough infused with rosemary alongside confit garlic butter. Next, we explored a theme of white corn sourced from Cameron Highlands, teamed with corn veloute and a bite-sized corn jelly topped with caviar. Pressing ahead, the Langoustine ravioli paraded leek fondue, vin jaune sauce and a generous black truffle garnish. This was adeptly paired with Domaine de Saint Pierre Arbois Blanc Les Brûlées Chardonnay 2018—unveiling notes of stone fruit, green tea leaves and white flowers.
Next was Sawara, with smoked paprika mussel, Hokkaido scallop, watercress and coconut reduction, which offered incredibly fresh and succulent profiles. This dish was cleverly paired with Yann Durieux Love & Pif 2020, supplementing its sublime depth and integrated tinges. Following that, we had the Kampot pepper-crusted pigeon with petits pois tart and pigeon jus, alongside the copious undertones of Koshihikari rice—this was savoured with Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2020, a much-celebrated wine with an intense black fruit bouquet and a lush impression of dark hedgerow berries. After our main courses, a refreshing palate cleanser arrived at our table: sorbet and granita intertwined with notable Malaysian fruits and vegetables such as pandan, lemongrass and starfruit. This invigorating interlude prepared us for the coming desserts.
Rounding off the final wine pairing of the afternoon was Kracher Trockenbeerenauslese No. 5 Grand Cuvee 2019, an Austrian brand that is widely known for its superlative dessert wines. This added to the indulgence of Odette’s Blanc with Amazake, Hokkaido milk and caramel. We were then served an array of petite delights known as Douceurs. These included lychee pate de fruits, espresso fudge, Chitose strawberry tartlet, lemon and honey Kelulut tartlet, Verbena lollipop and a chocolate Tonka tartlet.
As the final notes of our extensive dining experience lingered, I couldn’t help but reflect on the collaborative virtuosity orchestrated by Horiuchi and Royer in this incredible four-hands feast. From the warm hospitality and camaraderie among fellow diners to the meticulous attention to detail in each course, every moment in this gastronomic sojourn provided a deep sense of appreciation for the art of food.
