Inside Kuching’s Most Exciting Wine Shop

When Kuching native Richard Lau decided to start Wine Lab in his hometown in 2021, it was primarily driven by his frustration in finding a decent house pour when dining out. “At restaurants or bars here, beer is still the common pairing, but it really piles on the pounds. There was nothing much or decent for those who wanted to have a glass of wine with their meal,” Lau remembers. In his ensuing conversation with a friend, who had introduced him to French wines, he told Lau to start his own wine shop instead.

That eureka moment made Lau embark on his current journey of bringing wine culture to his hometown, one sip at a time. His journey began when he spent the early part of the Covid-enforced lockdowns joining virtual wine tasting events and, through his cultivated social networks such as the Malaysian Wine Club, became connected to people in the wine trade, such as sommelier Chris Low and other club members.

Today, four years later, Wine Lab at Kuching’s thriving Saradise neighbourhood has become a magnet for wine aficionados looking for affordable bottles as well as high-end and rare vintages. To provide this range, Lau has become the Kuching representative for more than 10 wine distributors operating in the market, including Milawa, AsiaEuro, 3nity, Bordeaux Liquid Gold, DC Selections, and Unwined.

Wine Lab’s constant stream of wine events features sommeliers, winemakers, and chateau owners imparting stories to an appreciative and growing following of wine enthusiasts. The shop is also the satellite training venue for budding wine aficionados looking to undertake their Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) courses.

Meanwhile, Wine Lab’s series of wine dinners runs the gamut of natural wine-paired occasions, all the way to a recent First Growth Bordeaux dinner comprising vintages from the 1980s and 1990s, with the full monty of Lafite Rothschild, Mouton Rothschild, Haut-Brion, Latour, Margaux, and Cheval Blanc, as well as a Chateau d’Yquem to end.

“We usually work with our distributors to have travelling winemakers make a second stop in Kuching following their Kuala Lumpur visit, and these winemakers have been impressed with the incredibly positive response of our clients,” Lau observes. “This is a great indicator that the local market is ready for growth.”

With Wine Lab having its connections to most of the big wine distributors, Lau says that there is no pressure on him, unlike in Kuala Lumpur, to favour any particular label or region. “We’re going out there advising clients on what is right for them—and, right now, there’s so much in the market that we see consumption patterns evolving before our eyes.”

Now, with a fully running operation supported by a complement of staff, Lau has decided to embark on the second phase of his wine business, with the opening of Wine Lab Plus in late 2025. “I’ve been quite lucky that the process has been quite good,” Lau reflects on his journey to date. “In the beginning, I was doing everything alone, and it was a bit crazy to be representing so many wines and distributors at the same time.”

Wine Lab Plus is ensconced in the old town of Padungan in Kuching, among heritage shop lots. The depth of these shop lots allows Wine Lab Plus to double as a retail store and office in the front half, with a purpose-built 40ft walk-in chiller to keep wines in optimal conditions. The addition of Wine Lab Plus also allows Lau to grow his restaurant supply business, with a range that extends beyond wines into spirits and also non-alcoholic beverages.

Lau’s savvy move in purchasing an existing import business in Singapore, called Daritana (loosely translated as ‘From the Earth’), has helped Lau to grow his presence in the Lion City and, crucially, to ship his favourite bottles directly into Kuching. Among the labels that he is directly importing are Domaine Lamy-Caillat from Burgundy, France; Weingut Keller from Rheinhessen, Germany; Domaine de la Cote from California; and USA Phelan Farm from California, USA, a new passion project by Rajat Parr.

In Singapore, Daritana supplies wines to top Michelin-starred restaurants, such as the three-starred Odette and Zen, the two-starred Saint Pierre and Shoukouwa, and also the private members’ club P67 Pall Mall. Thus, Daritana ably complements Wine Lab and Wine Lab Plus with its regional importation, distribution, and offering wine consultancy in both Singapore and Malaysia. “This business will also focus on wines reflecting authentic, place-driven producers,” Lau shares.

In hindsight, the sum of Lau’s approach in following his passion has definitely helped Wine Lab become the de facto starting point for budding enthusiasts and wine connoisseurs. Lau’s observation of the Kuching scene is that the wine journey for many usually begins with Australian wine, wending its way to Chilean, Argentinean, and then to the Old World of Spain, Italy, Bordeaux, and Burgundy. For Lau, it’s important that he offers a choice of all of the above for clients looking to dip their toes or to build their collections. “Anyone who walks into my shop and asks for something, I want to have it so they’ll never walk out disappointed.”

Wine Lab

Photography by Kelvin Yung / @kellynelly