What To Do When You Inherit or Find a Non-Working Vintage Timepiece

One of the great draws of a mechanical watch is that it can last a lifetime—or several, as it becomes a generational heirloom. But it needs constant maintenance. And, sometimes, it can be forgotten for years, decades even, only to pop up later in a safe, drawer, or flea market.

What does one do with such a find? For starters, you should not immediately wind and wear that watch, as tempting as it might be. Letting a qualified watchmaker ascertain if the movement is safe for operation would be more prudent, especially when it comes to inherited vintage watches. You would want to preserve the components much more than you want the watch to simply keep time.

Vintage watches that have been left fallow for long enough require a full-on restoration rather than a service. This entails a complete examination and case-by-case analysis, unlike the routine procedure for a modern watch. Even opening a watch without causing damage requires the right know-how and equipment. The exposed movement can then be read like a book, speaking of how well it has been kept and how attentive past watchmakers have been.

Cleaning and lubrication are relatively simple affairs. The biggest challenge for a vintage watch is if parts need to be replaced outright—unlike a modern timepiece, these are often discontinued and difficult to find. It is a painstaking process. The lead time for a restoration at most vintage repair shops might range from weeks, or even months.

Sending a watch back to its original manufacturer is usually one option, but independent workshops may offer more personalised service, one which keeps the piece in proximity. Another advantage is individual discernment for each job, particularly for vintage pieces, where preservation and originality may be the owner’s priority. An independent watchmaker can offer a more holistic discussion with the owner. For example, whether to retain an aged component, whether polishing is desirable, or how much of cosmetic intervention should be undertaken.

One such local workshop that provides these services is Watchworks Studio, located in The Starhill. The mall has established itself as one of Kuala Lumpur’s horological nerve centres, with its Jalan Bukit Bintang-facing facade dominated by famous Swiss watchmaking names. Watchworks Studio occupies a quieter corner of the mall, but also focuses on high-end watch repair and restoration with an independent, client-centric, and personal focus.

Led by a veteran trained at prestigious Swiss manufactures, the team possesses the expertise to service virtually any watch that comes through their doors—demonstrated by their recent restoration of a 1950s minute repeater pocket watch. While they readily assist with basic requests like replacing a battery for a quartz movement, their primary focus remains on high-level complications, delivering the specialised mastery that local collectors value most.

There has been a growing interest in watch restoration, and an awareness of how vintage watches should be maintained. Collectors today show greater appreciation for original dials, cases, hands, and even the natural ageing of a watch. Just like the restoration of any other worldly item, the preservation of a watch can sometimes be more about knowing what not to change.

These decisions can have very tangible consequences. Sharon Chan, Bonhams’ international director of watches in Asia, explains that the auction specialist looks at many factors when evaluating a timepiece—authentication, rarity, provenance, condition, and market demand, for example, but also originality. “With vintage timepieces, seemingly minor details can have a significant impact on worth,” she explains. Pieces that have been heavily altered or contain non-original parts are often screened out immediately.

Bonhams regularly receives vintage watches that have undergone some degree of restoration, from light case polishing to extensive work such as dial refinishing or movement overhauls. “The type, extent, and quality of a restoration can have a significant impact on a watch’s value as the vintage watch market generally places a premium on originality,” Chan explains. “For example, a sympathetically restored case, with minimal intervention, may be viewed more favourably than an over-polished case that has lost its original proportions and sharp edges. Similarly, a refinished dial may improve aesthetics, but typically carries a lower valuation than an original dial with honest ageing.”

The results can be dramatic. In 2024, a Cartier London Baignoire Allongée ‘Maxi Oval’, circa 1979, sold for HK$1.4 million (approximately RM727,000), some 23 times the low estimate. Despite a visibly cracked dial and heavy surface wear, its lack of alterations or replacement parts made it a highly coveted piece of history. In March, a Patek Philippe Ref. 130 chronograph, circa 1946, achieved HK$460,800 (approximately RM240,000)—more than twice the low estimate. “Though it had previously sat unsold at another auction house, we re-offered it with total transparency about its lightly cleaned dial and honest case wear,” Chan says. “It proves that collectors will eagerly compete for historic references when they are accurately and openly represented.”

There’s an even higher ceiling to this. In December last year, Sotheby’s New York hammered down an ultra-complicated and ultra-rare 1921 Audemars Piguet pocket watch for a grand sum of US$7.7 million (approximately RM31.5 million) in a 10-minute bidding skirmish that drove the price up by nearly eight times its top estimate of US$1 million.

“Before choosing whether to sell, it is important to understand exactly what you have, both in terms of its market value and its family significance,” Chan says. “I also encourage clients to think about whether they will genuinely wear and enjoy a watch.”

Ultimately, keeping a timepiece going is more about preserving its significance in history, be it on a personal level or in the grand scheme of the history of haute horlogerie. And fiscal possibilities aside, there’s nothing better than maintaining a watch that actually means something to its owner and the generations to come.