A Guide To Aragón, Home Of Medieval And Mudéjar Masterpieces

So, sit back, relax, and join Robb Report Malaysia on a journey through the best that Aragón has to offer. ¡Vámonos!

Melting Pot

Start your adventures in Aragón in its capital and Spain’s fourth-largest city, Zaragoza. Discover and appreciate the confluence of Roman, Muslim, Christian, and Jewish cultures, heritage, and traditions in this city of 700,000. Begin at the Cathedral-Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar, the iconic symbol of Zaragoza and the veritable heart of the city. Devotees come from all over the world to pray here for divine help, especially every October during the Fiestas del Pilar, when the historic region bursts into a multicoloured, multisensory celebration that culminates in the Offering of Flowers to the Virgin of the Pillar on the 12th.

For the best views of the cathedral, take a short walk to the Puente de Piedra, literally meaning “stone bridge”. Crossing the Ebro River then leads to Macanaz Park, directly opposite the cathedral and perfect for a picnic of tapas and grenache wine (more on these libations later).

Zaragoza is affectionately known as “the city of two cathedrals”, the other being the Cathedral of El Salvador, also known as La Seo, which was built on the site of a Roman forum and later a mosque. It features Romanesque, Gothic, Mudéjar, Renaissance, and Baroque styles, as well as the La Seo Tapestry Museum, which houses one of the world’s finest collections of Flemish tapestries. Most pertinently, its Mudéjar architecture is so culturally significant that it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Without turning this into a history lesson, Mudéjar is an ancient artistic and architectural style that masterfully blends Islamic and Christian traditions with Hispano-Muslim influences.

Mudéjar aesthetics can be found throughout Aragón, but one of the best places to see them in all their glory is Aljafería Palace, just a 10-minute drive from the Basilica of the Pillar. The “Palace of Joy”, as it is also affectionately called, contains structures dating back to the ninth century, with its Muslim influences becoming more pronounced two centuries later. From its interlacing arches to its coffered ceilings, Aljafería’s Aragonese Mudéjar interiors and artworks have been lovingly preserved and restored, making them a must-see in Zaragoza. Fun fact: it is also the seat of the Parliament of Aragón.

Before moving to Madrid and, later, France, the great Spanish artist Francisco José de Goya y Lucientes spent his formative years in Zaragoza. The Goya Museum, as well as the Zaragoza Museum, houses many of his masterpieces, while some of the finest early works by the last of the Old Masters can be found in the Basilica of the Pillar. Two other titans of Spanish art also called Zaragoza home: Pablo Gargallo, a pioneer of avant-garde sculpture, and Pablo Serrano, one of Spain’s most important sculptors. The Museo Pablo Gargallo and the IAACC Pablo Serrano are just as essential as the Goya museums.

The Best of the Land

“You can’t come to Zaragoza without visiting the Central Market,” says Jorge, my guide for the day. He explains that local architect Félix Navarro Pérez designed the market in the late 1800s before it opened in 1903. Pérez was heavily influenced by Parisian Modernism, then in vogue, and its prominent use of ironwork and metal detailing makes it one of the most picturesque places to buy and enjoy fresh Aragonese produce, olive oil, Ternasco lamb, Teruel jamón, local vegetables such as borraja, and, naturally, wine.

For one of the tastiest souvenirs you can bring home, head to Pastelería Fantoba in the centre of the old town. Established in 1856, the chocolatier’s specialities have delighted royalty, locals, and tourists ever since. Try the Frutas de Aragón, one of its bestsellers, made with candied fruits from the region.

Then, after shopping with the locals, why not join them as they gather nightly in El Tubo, the city’s district for bars, tapas, wines, and other Spanish pleasures served on plates and in glasses? There, you’re bound to find something to whet your appetite and quench your thirst among Zaragoza’s more than 6,000 food-and-beverage establishments. My favourite is La Clandestina, which serves contemporary takes on traditional Spanish tapas alongside local craft beers and, of course, grenache wine.

Across Spain, there are 69 appellations of origin for wine; four of them are in Aragón, and the vast majority of their vineyards grow grenache (garnacha) grapes. That’s why Zaragoza is also known as the “Capital of Garnacha”, thanks to its proximity to the Campo de Borja, Calatayud, Cariñena, and Somontano appellations. To sample some of Aragón’s finest grenache wines, drive about an hour to Borja and book a tour and tasting at Bodegas Borsao. None other than Robert Parker himself has called it his “favourite value winery not only in Spain, but in the world”.

From its 5,100ha of vineyards—60 per cent of which are planted with grenache, alongside syrah, cabernet sauvignon, tempranillo, and other varieties—Borsao produces and exports eight million litres of wine every year with a staff of just 60. You’ll fall in love with every glass served during the tasting, which also includes olives grown by the winery, but leave some room in your suitcase for Borsao Tres Picos, its most famous wine, and Borsao Selección Rosado. Both are 100 per cent garnacha and perfect for any occasion, whether a party or simply a reminder of the wonders of Aragón.

While Bodegas Borsao is one of the region’s largest wineries, comprising several cooperatives and hundreds of winemaking families, Libre y Salvaje is a family-owned organic winery with just 15ha of vineyards, producing 60,000 bottles annually and located only a 30-minute drive from Zaragoza. Its highlight is its underground cave network, one of the largest in Aragón, dating back centuries and still used to rest its wines. Amphorae—some over a century old and capable of holding up to 1,675 litres—are also used in the ageing process.

Even at the height of summer, the caves provide a cool environment for both wine and visitors. They can also be arranged for intimate tastings, although my group opts for a stately room in the winery’s historic manor house. Its Garnacha and Garnacha Blanca wines are must-tries and guaranteed crowd-pleasers, but for something deliciously daring, ask for the Narancha, an orange wine that is every bit as free and wild as the landscapes surrounding Libre y Salvaje.

Cultural Crossroads

For those looking to extend their Aragonese adventure—which I highly recommend—book a night or two in Teruel, in the south of the region. The town is the capital of the province of the same name and is itself a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognised as one of the most important centres of Mudéjar art and architecture.

The standouts, quite literally, are the town’s four towers: El Salvador, San Martín, Saint Peter’s Church, and the Cathedral of Santa María de Mediavilla. Book a guided tour to see all four, especially the cathedral, whose ceiling my guide Marta describes as the “Sistine Chapel of Mudéjar craftsmanship”.

Meanwhile, Saint Peter’s Church is linked to the Mausoleum of the Lovers, a tale that further enhances Teruel’s appeal. I won’t spoil the ending, but the tragic romance of Diego and Isabel has inspired countless artistic works throughout history and may tug at your heartstrings too.

Torico Square is where residents and visitors alike gather for tapas and wine. Take a selfie with the small bull (torico) perched atop the central column, admire the Modernist façades surrounding the square, and then enjoy tapas featuring local cured ham (jamón), roast lamb (ternasco), sausages, black truffles, and more. You’ll need the sustenance for tomorrow’s trip to what many consider the most beautiful town in Spain.

About an hour’s drive into the hills lies Albarracín, a hillside town with a population of around 1,000—although that figure swells dramatically during summer when tourists and holiday-home owners arrive to admire its imposing 13th-century fortress walls and old quarter, which has been designated a Spanish Property of Cultural Interest. Medieval Islamic influences are also abundant in Albarracín, as it was once the capital of a Taifa Kingdom during the 10th and 11th centuries.

There are magnificent views throughout the town, but the best vantage points are from the castle atop the hill, which once housed a hammam; Plaza Mayor, the town’s main square; and the park at the foot of the hill beside the Guadalaviar River.

Strolling here—with lush greenery and crystal-clear waters rushing around me, while red-hued homes, medieval fortifications, and azure skies stretch out ahead—convinces me that the quaint town of Albarracín truly deserves its reputation as Spain’s most beautiful town, tucked away within the royally grand region of Aragón.