Penang Island’s status as a mecca for gastronomes was further cemented last year with the debut of the Michelin Guide. From the myriad of scrumptious options available, a total of 46 establishments in Penang were chosen, including two one-Michelin-Starred restaurants and 17 Bib Gourmands.
To further understand the methods behind the eminent gastronomy guide, Robb Report Malaysia spoke with Elisabeth Boucher-Anselin, the current Director of Communications, Brand and Sustainable Development of MICHELIN Experiences. When asked if any of the highly secretive food inspectors were Malaysian, Boucher-Anselin would not confirm it to “maintain the anonymity of the teams”.
“We have more than 15 nationalities that are represented in this international team of inspectors,” says Boucher-Anselin, who has more than ten years of experience with the Michelin group. “We make sure that their natural expertise in one or several types of cuisines is broadened to many others, as they are trained to be an inspector and as they are getting experience all the time.
“It doesn’t mean that if we have a Japanese inspector that they can’t go to a French, Malaysian or Sichuanese restaurant and include their expertise in it,” she continues. “They have been trained to understand the local differences and to identify clearly the ingredients to make sure they know the difference and know what is good, super good, and exceptional given a certain dish. I would say nationality is not that important in our process because our teams are trained time and time again on different cuisines.” She also explained that inspectors are typically professionals who have experience in the culinary field such as former chefs or sommeliers.
Touching on the differences between a selected restaurant and a Bib Gourmand, Boucher-Anselin said, “We are obviously very careful about the quality of the food but we also pay attention to the price. For the Bib Gourmand, we have to add a set menu below a certain amount of money. Sometimes there is a small place with one iconic dish that is quite cheap, but if you look at the dishes on the whole, the prices may vary and it may be more expensive than it looks. We are really looking to target below a certain amount of price. It’s the same everywhere, not only in Malaysia. This is to make sure that everyone can access the Michelin Guide selection.”
Although Boucher-Anselin would not divulge if the Michelin Guide has any concrete plans to be introduced to other states, she did say that “Malaysia is a destination that our inspection team fell in love with. We started with Kuala Lumpur and Penang, we hope that in the future we will [expand to other states].
“The Michelin Guide inspectors are always looking for new places to cover, whether in Malaysia and in other countries,” she adds. “Curiosity and open-mindedness—the best meal they will get is one that they have not got yet. We decided collectively with the Inspection team that we are going to find more restaurants in Kuala Lumpur and Penang too.”
She then excitingly revealed that ahead of the annual reveal ceremony in 2024, the Michelin Guide will be releasing new additions beginning in June. These announcements will be done throughout the year, where establishments will be highlighted with a ‘New’ symbol to enable easy identification by gourmets on the Michelin Guide’s website and mobile app. The whole selection, including the distinctions and Special Awards, will then be unveiled at the next ceremony.
For a comprehensive culinary insight into the workings of the Michelin Guide, Robb Report then embarked on a three-day expedition to sample the island’s finest fare, which has been listed in the Guide:
Bao Teck Tea House (Michelin Selected)
Besides curating its refined menu, Au Meng Kit painstakingly and personally created the exquisite space with antique furniture such as 19th-century strained glass door panels, golden touches, and opulent ornaments including a customised perch for his cockatoo. From humble beginnings in his first pastry shop, Au evolved the brand into a Cantonese dim sum and yum cha haven that is unrivalled on the island in terms of its ambience and decadent menu.
To match its sumptuous settings is a perfectly formed menu that makes every bite a delight. This includes Mushroom Siu Mai topped with gold leaf; Snowy Char Siew Bun, where fluffy steam buns are generously filled with barbequed roasted pork; and delightfully Crispy Yam puffs. For those seeking bespoke experiences, a premium tea room awaits upstairs where the staff have undergone special training to serve premium selections such as the Wuyi tea, prized for the distinctive terroir of the Fujian mountainsides where they are grown.
gēn 根 (Michelin Selected)
Located at the corner of the Prestige Hotel, we sampled the 10-course seasonal tasting menu at this fine-dining establishment that offers innovative interpretations of local ingredients and flavours. A notable dish was the T’lur Caviar and Jicama, a combination of homegrown tropical caviar paired with mashed water chestnut, which brought forth buttery and light hazelnut flavours.
The Doo Pomfret, considered to be a luxurious fish by the Teochew community, was chargrilled instead of being steamed, and topped with fish porridge and edible fish bone, which added a crispier texture to the dish. Imaginatively using almost every part of the fish from the head to the tail, it was paired with a fish stew made out of the fish head, which rewarded us with a newfound appreciation of the seafood.
All of this was masterminded by chef-owner Johnson Wong, who graduated from Le Cordon Bleu Sydney and who also helms its sister restaurant and predecessor, Communal Table by gēn, which is a Bib Gourmand that specialises in sharing plates. “My hometown is Johor. Why this restaurant is in Penang and why I decided to put this restaurant here is because it is an interesting city,” Wong explains. “If you look at the type of consumer and clientele here, they are very different from Kuala Lumpur, as we have many food travellers. This restaurant offers a different kind of connection in terms of local produce and taste to those who travel to this city. We give them a different set of views of how we handle local flavours.”
Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery (One Michelin Star)
The Peranakan cuisine here is made from scratch by the bubbly 70-year-old who is the face behind the establishment and whose kunyit-stained hands are a testament to years of slaving in the kitchen. She counts nasi ulam, sambal brinjal, Assam prawn, and gulai tumis amongst her specialities, and royalty such as the Sultan of Selangor among her patrons.
“In cooking, there are no restrictions––just science and common sense,” the fourth-generation Nyonya says. “Time management is very important. The last ingredient you put into every dish is the love you put from your heart. That is the kind of passion you need to sustain.”
The month of June also marks GastroMonth Kuala Lumpur and Penang 2023, an inaugural month-long celebration showcasing inventing and exquisite cuisine from more than 40 establishments featured in the prestigious guide.
