Mention Chateau Dionne and chef Andy Choy is likely the first person that comes to mind. His outlook and cultivated spirit for French cuisine have nurtured the brand into an in-demand fine dining establishment. Thriving in the food and beverage industry in Kuala Lumpur is no small task, given the unflagging demands, progressive culinary directions, generational preferences, and numerous other complexities. Yet, the gently lit two-floor chamber tucked away in Bukit Damansara has maintained its steady course in the gastronomic landscape, proudly celebrating four years of operation this year.
Over this period, the restaurant has sold more than 16,000 soufflés, expanded its portfolio with N.I.C.E Bistronome and Doux Doux, and even branched out into catering services for several high-end clientele. To toast this momentous occasion, Choy and his team have assembled the most prized recipes and specialties from the past four years into two anniversary tasting menus—the Anniversary Tasting Menu and the Anniversary Prestige Menu, both complete with free corkage.
The flavour-packed servings represent Chateau Dionne’s best of the best. Sous chef Wei Han kicks off the visual fest with a quartet of well-infused morsels, from a refreshing blend of passionfruit and mango mixed with malty hoops served in a miniature beer stein, to a puff of French onion soup-inspired choux sphere packed with onion mozzarella cream. Next, it comes as no surprise that their capellini makes an appearance in both tasting menus. An all-time personal favourite, the crowning element of this dish is a spoonful of Caviar Colony Kaluha Hybrid neatly stacked above a small heap of angel hair pasta. The truffle lends a whisper of earthy essence, while the ponzu injects a trace of citrus, and the tender crunch of finely diced red onion creates a well-rounded profile and textural consistency.
The bouillabaisse—one of the key mains—is prepared with fresh fish imported from Japan. Local clam bulks up the dish, while a velvety rouille sauce, made with garlic chili, ties it all together. This classic Provençal fish soup is then polished off with saffron potatoes, a red pepper tuile, and a dash of Pernod liqueur. Bœuf pithivier, on the other hand, is a rare treat in Chateau Dionne. The reimagined French pastry is stuffed with wagyu cheek and oyster blade, along with mushrooms and spinach nestled within. A dash of Bordelaise sauce encircles the pastry upon presentation, supplementing a wine-forward profile to complement the wholesome pastry crunch all around.
Soufflés are a hallmark here. Each one bears the name ‘Chateau Dionne’ stamped on it and comes with an ensemble of add-on components that are shown in action upon serving. After slicing through the cloud-like dome, in goes a burst of fine Grand Marnier cognac, orange marmalade, and a mound of vanilla ice cream. Accompanying this is a card detailing the origin of soufflés, the overall tally since its introduction (soufflé number 16,131 was graciously received), and a quote at the bottom: ‘You can’t make a soufflé rise twice’.
Still, the team pushes forward with the final flourish of six varied kinds of petite fours beautifully contained in a glass-lidded box. The array includes mini canelé steeped with vanilla and rum, ripe luscious cherries, palmier enrobed in sugar and peanuts, cream-filled beignet, and dark chocolate truffle sourced from local producer Chocolate Concierge.
As Chateau Dionne reflects on its milestone thus far, they’re also anticipating what lies ahead. Expect to see revamped spaces, a new logo, and experimental menus before the year wraps up.
The anniversary tasting menus are now open for reservations until 20 October.
Photography: Law Soo Phye
