To master the finesse of French culinary techniques is a high bar to clear; securing a Michelin star for it is an even tougher accomplishment. DC Restaurant by Darren Chin is among the few restaurants in Malaysia to have achieved this feat. Earlier this year, Chef Darren Chin was also honoured on the international stage when he was appointed Chevalier de l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole by the French Republic, a prestigious recognition that reflects his dedication to his craft.
The polished fine-dining scene, however, is only part of what DC Restaurant has to offer. Hidden on the third floor of its building is the Cellar, where Chin pushes the boundaries of his culinary skills with an omakase concept. “It’s definitely a lot more interactive compared to our usual dining spaces,” Chin says. “A lot of the dishes are the current showcase of my palette and my exploration. I want to share this with my guests.” Here, each dish unfolds like a chapter from Chin’s private diary.
The Tomato Declination is a dish that perfectly captures the depth of Chin’s creative mind. He celebrates the humble French Marmande tomato in four forms, expressed through varying textures and perspectives. It begins with a tomato leather topped with caviar, followed by smoked tomato water infused over apple wood. Then, the fruit is broken down into a tomato concassé with young jackfruit relish—a recipe Chin learned during his travels in Chiang Rai, before concluding with a classic tomato gazpacho with sweet basil sorbet. “It’s a very traditional recipe but it took us almost six months to get the balance right,” he says.
At DC Restaurant, there are no menus present—only the season’s finest produce is displayed at the counter. “This is the last week for white asparagus, so you’re very lucky to enjoy it,” Chin states. This prized delicacy is served with a spring pea purée, wild garlic oil, cecina, and rare Brittany blue lobsters, treasured for their sweet flesh and scarcity. The result is a gourmet spring dish with delicate flavours and luxurious accents.
While French traditions remain at the core of DC Restaurant, its inventive creations occasionally find inspiration from Japanese elements. The next course features heirloom carrots baked in a charcoal-lavender dough, infused with the fragrance of mi-sansho (young Japanese peppers), a fleeting seasonal specialty. The carrots are then wrapped in maguro and finished with lavender oil, a lacto-fermented carrot sauce, and ume plum. “We don’t use chutoro or otoro, because we don’t want to introduce too much of that oiliness to the dish,” the chef explains. This is a captivating dish that truly expresses Chin’s inventive spirit and unique approach to ingredients, one that surprises the palate with its unexpected combination.
“Global cuisine in the current times has seen palates of gourmands and epicureans evolve around the world. For now, we believe Southeast Asia takes centre,” Chin says. On that note, he brings forth Songkhla wild river prawns—famed for their buttery tomalley—paired with yellow curry, wild pepper leaves, and roasted celeriac. This dish delivers the heat, layered yet comforting. Having established a renowned Thai restaurant of his own—Gai by Darren Chin—the chef is no stranger to Thai cuisine. “When you go to a Thai restaurant, you’ll know a great one from an average one through their curries,” he says. “And as a chef cooking for more than 20 years, the difficulty of making curries is 11 out of 10.”
He is also very much aware that dining crowds have changed as time marches forward. “The food at DC Restaurant has also evolved over the past 11 years,” he notes. Although this omakase concept offers him a canvas to unleash his artistic freedom, the chef understands that modern diners appreciate the freedom of choice as well. In response, DC Restaurant now offers an à la carte menu for the first time. Chin offers a glimpse of the new selection, presenting a Spanish suckling lamb that tastes as good as it looks. It is complemented by the savoury richness of anchovy cream and mushroom fricassee, then beautifully balanced by the gentle earthiness of salsify and the subtle tang from the ‘Thae Po’ tamarind jus. In short, it’s a dish that will convince anyone to come back for more.
For those excited for Darren Chin’s next venture, look no further—the Cellar is where he’ll be.
Photography by Law Soo Phye
