Wayne Eng’s culinary arsenal piece is a Shiroyama (城山) knife, exquisitely hand-forged in Japan, which he uses to transform cooking into an art form. With it, Eng slices and cuts treasures from the seas of Japan, such as oysters and black abalone, with prodigious skill in front of diners. Eng is the chef-owner of Komorebi Dining in the heart of Georgetown on the island of Penang.
The establishment serves Kappo cuisine, an intimate Japanese culinary experience where chef and guest connect over a seasonally curated multi-course menu, blending artistry, precision, and personal touch.
The word kappo is derived from two kanji characters: katsu (割), meaning ‘to cut’, and ho (烹), meaning ‘to cook’. “In Kuala Lumpur, there are probably only three Kappo restaurants. And in Penang, we are the only ones so far, even though we’ve been open for almost two years. I want to let Malaysian diners know that Japanese cuisine is not only about sushi,” explained Eng.
“Everything is really served according to the season,” Eng adds. “It’s hard for us to have a fixed menu because we depend on our buyers in Japan to source the best ingredients for us.” As a consequence, my follow-up visit revealed an entirely revamped menu. Meals here may be enhanced by tastings of Kokuryu Ishidaya, a junmai daiginjo (highest-grade premium sake) of unparalleled mellowness and fullness of flavour, exclusively available in Malaysia at this establishment.
A Mouthwatering Procession
My meal commenced with Samurai Gold Oyster from Hyōgo prefecture, delicately dressed with ponzu sauce, radish, and spring onion, which made for an exquisite mouthful that balanced creamy richness with briny sweetness.
Hokkaido pumpkins are highly valued for their culinary versatility, and Eng presented two variants of this on one plate. A crisp pumpkin tempura rested on a sumptuous pumpkin purée gently enriched with milk, its natural sweetness lifted by the Kaluga Hybrid caviar from Caviar Colony, the only restaurant in Penang to carry this brand. The caviar’s mild earthiness, with subtle notes of mushroom, a gentle tang, and a subtle bitter edge, wove seamlessly into the pumpkin’s comforting warmth, creating layered harmonies of flavour.
The menu would not be complete without sashimi, elegantly crafted with precision by Eng’s precise hand. Shima Aji, or striped jack, was first aged for six days to reveal a deepened sweetness with layers of umami, its texture transformed into a silky richness that offered a lingering and mellow finish. This was topped with floral and zesty accents from local bunga kantan (ginger torch flower), as well as the crisp, green freshness of baby spring onion.
More Dishes at Komorebi Dining
With each dish, Komorebi Dining proved that it was not a restaurant but a stage for craft and nature’s harvest, where Eng transformed transient ingredients into lasting memories.
Photography by Law Soo Phye
