In its latest and current era, defined by the appointment of CEO Guido Terreni in 2021, Parmigiani Fleurier has been on a roll, with a new collection or highlight release every year since—the all-new Tonda PF collection in 2021, the GMT Rattrapante in 2022, the Minute Rattrapante in 2023, and the Toric collection in 2024, to name the most significant. This year, at Watches & Wonders, the brand did not add anything new to that list; rather, the theme was on consolidation, with a particular focus on colour. Parmigiani Fleurier today is an exemplar of discreet luxury and, with a slew of new, lighter dial colours, it embodies that philosophy in a very current sense, with a laid-back, relaxed approach to self-expression.
Toric Quantieme Perpetuel
The Toric is the original Parmigiani Fleurier, the first watch to be unveiled in 1996 after the brand was founded by Michel Parmigiani. Last year, the Toric was reintroduced to champion the dressier side of contemporary, understated luxury—sartorially inspired, with a hand-grained dial and subtle curves in all the right places. For 2025, the collection is joined by a pair of perpetual calendar executions, limited to just 50 pieces each: one in platinum with a ‘Morning Blue’ dial (RM478,300), and one in rose gold with a ‘Golden Hour’ dial (RM441,900). At 40.6mm in diameter and slightly less than 11mm in thickness, these watches are an especially uncluttered take on the perpetual calendar, using two stacked subdials—day and date are at 8 o’clock, and month and leap year indicator at 4 o’clock.
Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
The Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante was unveiled in 2022, at the end of the COVID-19 lockdown era—great timing for a travel watch. It was not just any travel watch, however. Some would argue that Parmigiani Fleurier’s GMT Rattrapante was not even a real GMT watch. But it was, undeniably, an innovative take on the complication—stripped down to its bare essentials, and borderline invisible when not in use, as the second ‘home time’ hour hand could be hidden beneath the quickset local hour. The ‘rattrapante’ part comes in when travel is concluded—at the touch of the pusher on the crown, the now-extraneous hour hand zips back into hiding. Its new execution sports a rather mesmerising ‘Verzasca’ blue-leaning green dial (RM149,200). It is named after Switzerland’s Verzasca Valley, touted for its crystal-clear waters. Its steel case is 40mm in diameter and 10.7mm thick.
Tonda PF Chronograph No Date 40mm
The Tonda PF Chronograph has lost its date—to the delight of the purists—and with it, has seen its overall diameter shrink from 42mm to 40mm—also, to the delight of the purists. Two millimetres is a lot in watchmaking terms, and this reduction in size and weight makes it that much easier to wear—which is especially significant for a dressy, bracelet sports watch that is meant, indeed, to be worn anywhere and everywhere. The lack of date also makes it seem that little bit more unconcerned, which pairs well with the mineral blue dial (RM163,800). Its steel case is about 12.7mm in thickness, while the COSC-certified automatic calibre has a 65-hour power reserve.
Tonda PF Skeleton
The Tonda PF Skeleton has been a looker from the start, with the complex geometry and brushed texturing of its openworked dial channelling a modern take on skeletonisation—and an excellent example of Parmigiani Fleurier’s exacting standards of finishing. Last year, it grabbed attention with Milano Blue in a platinum case; this year, it does so with Slate Green in a steel case, limited to 50 pieces (RM337,900). It measures 40mm in diameter and is exceptionally slim at only 8.5mm in thickness.
Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet
Its sportiest watch is the most natural platform for materials innovation, and, indeed, Parmigiani Fleurier is the first to create an entire case out of Cermet. This composite material is a fusion of ceramic and titanium, and the result is extreme hardness and scratch-resistance in a lightweight package. Satin-polished and dark grey in presentation, it is a somewhat edgy take for the brand, especially paired as it is with a grey-black dial and muscular dimensions—it measures 42.5mm in diameter and is more than 13mm thick (RM207,500). There are two colour options relating to the trio of subdials: London Grey and Milano Blue, and they are paired with rubber straps to match.
