Kuala Lumpur’s love affair with omakase-styled restaurants shows no sign of abatement. The latest entry into the scene is one where its sister restaurants has been enjoying alpha status in Johor Bahru, namely; Sushi Shin, JB and Binchotan, JB. Sky35, so named for its occupancy on the topmost floor of Pavilion Embassy on Jalan Ampang, is the result of a tour de force by gastronome Ben Yeoh, who personally worked on the many facets of the restaurant, going on incalculable sourcing trips in Japan, and specifying the Sky35 experience right down to its Hermes plateware and Zalto stemware.
Yeoh’s level of attention also led to the commissioning of French artist Arnaud Nazare-Aga to produce sumo sculptures that add contemporary chic and orientalism to the space. Upon entry, diners arrive at a scene flooded with elements of a swish Tokyo restaurant. Senses are uplifted by effervescent upbeat music, opulent floral arrangements and tactile Italian granite table tops with a ‘Black Cherry’ leather finish. The piece de resistance takes the form of the omakase counter – a ‘Venus Dior’ quartzite from Brazil with semi translucent finishes emanating with a sun-like glow of natural crystal veins. Beyond the counter, guests are transported on the wings of a bird with sweeping views of Kuala Lumpur city and the mountain ranges beyond.
At the counter, the show belongs to Sky35’s Chef John Chang who is also the maestro behind Sushi Shin and Binchotan in Johor Bahru. Since then, Chang’s continual journey in the art of Japanese cuisine has led him to develop further appreciation for purity of an ingredient-led menus as well as boldly incorporating culinary riffs to enhance natural flavours. Case in point: the eight-day aged otoro is chilled between one and four degrees to remove redundant moisture and enhance its taste, resulting in deeper and richer dimensions.
As is its claim, the entire journey of Sky35 promises to break new ground in terms of the omakase experience and really, you only need to be guided by the sushi chefs who will take you through the selection of ingredients and season’s offerings, from summer Alba truffles to premium Murasaki uni. Starting with the very first course, a giant oyster from the Chiba prefecture, those seeking that next-level omakase hit will have their senses reignited in two parts. Chang recommends eating a first portion of the oyster topped with a raspberry and onion sauce, before tackling the second part of ikura and liver, seguing from fruity sweetness to a rich umami.
That same philosophy of eclecticism extends to the culinary parade that follows; leading to deeper, smokier and long-lasting flavours. Uni and caviar sit atop chopped tuna and a charcoal-toasted sando for textural delight, while the fugu negi (chives) sauce serve as accompaniment to a marinated daikon and sardine roll. In between of these sensations, you would be amply rewarded perusing the amazing wine list curated by Sky35, a list which includes bottles from every top champagne house (what shortage?) and a resplendent line up of sakes and wines.
For its current Kaito Omakase “soaring sea” (RM588++), and Daichi Omakase “The Earth” (RM988++) signature menus, Sky35 offers an odyssey through three variants of vinegar. The stronger white lends its taste to the flounder, allied with finely sliced wasabi stem. The moderate red vinegar adds an unique smoothness to the akami, while black vinegar is harmonised with the tako (octopus) for a succulent chew. Those familiar with Chang’s oeuvre would also have enjoyed his growing mastery in innovating dishes and, at Sky35, you may expect to encounter conger eel-derived noodles, lobster tempura with a side of jalapeno sauce, and the highly sought-after kinki rock fish in a tingling Peruvian chilli-miso blended sauce.
Showmanship also comes in waves from the charring of the otoro with binchotan, to the reassuring display of trays of uni, down to the inspection of the aged otoro where guests observe first-hand the effect of ageing and marbling conditions to heighten the eventual sensation of taste.
Following dessert – a coffee panna cotta, salted caramel and macadamia – guests will be able to enjoy post-dinner chats with the kitchen team, as Sky35 is only rolling out single seatings for now. Diners may also decamp to the adjacent dining space and avail themselves to rarefied sakes, such as Dassai, Juyondai andan evocatively named Born Dream Come True junmai daiginjo by the Katoukichibee Shoten brewery – aged for a full five years at -8 degrees to attain a silky mouthfeel of cotton candy, peach and pear on the palate.
*Sky35 opens from 6pm to 10.30pm and is closed on Sundays.
Photos: Marcus Wong/ MV Pespective
