Inside Maple Palace Penang’s Stunning Transformation And Culinary Vision

I had visited the establishment on Northam Road in Penang, arguably the city’s premier Chinese restaurant for both its décor and cuisine, multiple times before. Yet following an extensive two-and-a-half-month renovation, it emerged virtually unrecognisable. I found myself doing a double take at the entrance, despite it being the only restaurant housed within the more than century-old heritage building.

The restaurant makes a striking first impression. At the entrance, a light fixture adorned with gold leaf, green ceramic breeze blocks that hint at what lies within, and a water feature flowing gently over a textured metal surface create a sense of anticipation.

Despite Maple Palace’s success, it is almost fully booked every night and frequently hosts prominent figures from the business and social scenes, Tan continues to raise the bar rather than rest on his laurels.

He shares, “Previously, the entire restaurant featured a spacious open layout in shades of ivory and soft grey, creating an atmosphere well suited to weddings and events. Since we first opened in 2009, we’ve renovated several times, but I wanted to revamp the place completely. This time around, I consulted several local interior designers, but their ideas were, as they say, ‘old wine in new bottles’. I then hired Toma (唐玛) Interior Design Studio from China, whose expansive portfolio includes luxury residences, hospitality spaces and private clubs, for its first-ever project in Malaysia.”

Tan says, “My interior designer asked me, ‘Do you want to be known for the events you host or for the dining experience you offer? Ultimately, you have to decide where you want your focus to lie.’ Evidently, I chose the latter, resulting in three distinct spaces, each with its own character yet harmoniously connected.”

He adds, “We have also expanded our private dining offering to seven rooms, as we frequently welcome guests who value privacy.”

The space is imbued with subtle local touches, including custom-made chairs upholstered in locally produced batik and prints of landmarks around the island, such as the Queen Victoria Memorial Clock Tower and the Penang High Court.

The renovation also introduces a glass-enclosed wine cellar at the entrance, offering guests a selection of wines, Tesseron Cognac and Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne.

Tan pays special attention to every detail of his 17-year-old establishment, walking around straightening cutlery, helping staff decide between two pomelos and greeting many of his regulars by name. He even engaged renowned Malaysian studio STAEK Photography to photograph more than 100 dishes before having the menu custom-printed in China, where, he says, the selection of materials and finishes is far broader. The day after I met him, Tan was heading to Guangzhou once again to source tablecloths.

Raising the Bar

Maple Palace’s transformation is not merely cosmetic: 40 per cent of the menu has been revamped. While Tan does not oversee the kitchen on a daily basis, he personally curates the dishes served. He also continues to train his team of around 20 chefs himself, ensuring they consistently adhere to his exacting standards.

His own culinary journey began humbly and is a testament to determination and hard work. Tan started as a coffeehouse waiter at the age of 14 before becoming a butcher for the Shangri-La group of hotels. He eventually joined Star Cruises, where he spent a decade working in the kitchens under a gruelling schedule that began at 5am and ended at 11pm. Determined to master Chinese cuisine, he chose to double his shifts whenever possible.

“Although we call ourselves a Cantonese restaurant, we take a modern Chinese approach, blending Cantonese, Teochew, Hakka and Hokkien influences with flavours from Sichuan and Hunan cuisine. As Malaysians based in Penang, we also incorporate local influences such as curry and Nyonya dishes. We want our menu to reflect the way Penangites eat. We love chilli, spice and sour flavours, while giving guests from around the world the opportunity to experience the diverse tastes of Penang in a restaurant setting. I’m also proud to say that we don’t use MSG,” shares Tan.

“As a gourmand, I travel frequently, most recently to Vietnam and China, to explore different cuisines and find inspiration for new dishes. One of our latest creations is a cold mantis prawn dish inspired by a visit to Guangzhou. The prawn is typically steamed or fried, but we carefully control the temperature to cook it very gently, somewhat like an onsen egg, which is quite challenging to achieve.”

Tan also takes great care in sourcing premium ingredients, from Spanish Ibérico pork raised on a diet rich in olive by-products to 20-year-old dried red beans.

“People are willing to pay a premium for Western fine dining, yet the same is often not true of Chinese restaurants like ours, which remain considerably more affordable despite the complexity and skill involved. I hope to change that narrative by showing that Chinese cuisine deserves the same appreciation as any other fine dining experience through dishes that are refined yet satisfying.

“Penang will always be known for its incredible hawker culture, which I deeply value, but I also hope to demonstrate that the island can be a destination for elevated Chinese cuisine,” Tan reflects.